Light Airs from the Southward, at intervals Calm, the fore
part hazey, the remainder clear, pleasant weather. At Noon our Latitude,
by observation, 40 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South, Longitude from
Cape West 6 degrees 52 minutes East; the Eastermost point of Land in
sight* (* Cape Farewell, the north point of South Island.) bore East
10 degrees North, distant 7 Leagues, and a bluff head or point we were
abreast of yesterday at Noon, off which lay some rocks above Water, bore
South 18 degrees West, distant 6 Leagues. This point I have named Rocks
Point, Latitude 40 degrees 55 minutes South. Having now nearly run down
the whole of this North-West Coast of Tovy Poenammu, it is time I should
describe the face of the Country as it hath at different times appeared
to us. I have mentioned on the 11th Instant, at which time we were off
the Southern part of the Island, that the land seen then was rugged and
mountainous; and there is great reason to believe that the same ridge of
Mountains extends nearly the whole length of the Island from between the
Westermost Land seen that day and the Eastermost seen on the 13th. There
is a space of about 6 or 8 Leagues of the sea Coast unexplored, but the
Mountains inland were Visible enough. The land near the Shore about Cape
West is rather low, and riseth with a gradual assent up to the foot of
the Mountains, and appear'd to be mostly covered with wood. From Point
Five Fingers down to the Latitude of 44 degrees 20 minutes there is a
narrow ridge of Hills rising directly from the Sea, which are Cloathed
with wood; close behind these hills lies the ridge of Mountains, which
are of a Prodidgious height, and appear to consist of nothing but barren
rocks, covered in many places with large patches of Snow, which perhaps
have lain there since the Creation. No country upon Earth can appear with
a more rugged and barren Aspect than this doth; from the Sea for as far
inland as the Eye can reach nothing is to be seen but the Summits of
these rocky Mountains, which seem to lay so near one another as not to
admit any Vallies between them. From the Latitude of 44 degrees 20
minutes to the Latitude 42 degrees 8 minutes these mountains lay farther
inland; the Country between them and the Sea consists of woody Hills and
Vallies of Various extent, both for height and Depth, and hath much the
Appearance of Fertility. Many of the Vallies are large, low, and flatt,
and appeared to be wholy covered with Wood; but it is very probable that
great part of the land is taken up in Lakes, Ponds, etc., as is very
common in such like places. From the last mentioned Latitude to Cape
Farewell, afterwards so Called, the land is not distinguished by anything
remarkable; it rises into hills directly from the Sea, and is covered
with wood. While we were upon this part of the Coast the weather was
foggy, in so much that we could see but a very little way inland;
however, we sometimes saw the Summits of the Mountains above the fogg and
Clouds, which plainly shew'd that the inland parts were high and
Mountainous, and gave me great reason to think that there is a Continued
Chain of Mountains from the one End of the Island to the other.* (* This
is, to a great extent, the case.)
23rd March 1770
[Off Cape Farewell, Middle Island, New Zealand]
22nd March 1770
[Off West Coast of South Island, New Zealand]
In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze from the
South-South-West, with which we steer'd along shore North-East until 8,
when being about 2 or 3 Leagues from shore we sounded, and had 34
fathoms, upon which we haul'd off North-West by North until 11, then
brought too, having at this time 64 fathoms. At 4 a.m. made sail to the
North-East, wind at South-South-West, a light breeze. At 8 the wind
veer'd to the Westward, and soon after fell Calm; at this time we were
about 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore, and in 54 fathoms, having a large
swell from the West-South-West rowling Obliquely upon the Shore, which
put me under a good deal of Apprehension that we should be obliged to
Anchor; but by the help of a light Air now and then from the South-West
quarter we were Enabled to keep the Ship from driving much nearer the
shore. At Noon the Northermost land in sight bore North-East by East 1/4
East, distant 8 or 10 Leagues; our Latitude by account was 40 degrees 55
minutes South, Longitude from Cape West 6 degrees 35 minutes East; Course
and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 36 degrees East, 42
Miles; very foggy over the Land.
Joseph Banks Journal
Cloudey mistey and calm all day. Once we were very near the shore on which we saw that there was a most dreadfull surf, occasiond by the S and SW swell which has reignd without intermission ever since we have been upon this side of the land.
21st March 1770
[Off West Coast of South Island, New Zealand]
In the P.M. had a fresh Gale at North by West, attended
with rain until 6, when the Wind shifted to South and South-South-West,
and continued to blow a fresh Gale, with which we steer'd North-East by
North until 6 A.M., at which time we haul'd in East by North in order to
make the land which we saw soon after. At Noon our Latitude per Account
was 41 degrees 37 minutes, and Longitude from Cape West 5 degrees 42
minutes East; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday North 60 degrees
East, 92 miles. At this time we were not above 3 or 4 Leagues from the
land, but being very foggy upon it we could see nothing distinct, and as
we had not much wind, and a prodigious swell rowling in upon the Shore
from the West-South-West, I did not think it safe to go nearer.
Joseph Banks Journal
Hazey: the land was wrap'd in a cloak of fog all day Above which the tops of some hills appeard. At night saw a Phaenomenon which I have but seldom seen, at sun set the flying clouds were of almost all colours among which was green very conspicuous tho rather faint colourd.
20th March 1770
[Off West Coast of South Island, New Zealand]
Fresh Gales at North-West by North and North by West. P.M. fair weather; the remainder hazey, with rain, and Squall, which brought us under close Reeft Topsails. Stood to the Westward until 2 a.m., when we made a Trip to the Eastward, and afterwards stood to the Westward until Noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in the Latitude of 42 degrees 23 minutes South. Course and distance sail'd South 74 degrees West, 54 Miles; Longitude made from Cape West 5 degrees 55 minutes East. Tack'd and stood to the Eastward.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 20th, we met with contrary winds, which carried us away to the west-ward; but, the wind coming favourable again, we resumed our former course, and came up with a head of land which we named Cape Foul Wind.
Fresh Gales at North-West by North and North by West. P.M. fair weather; the remainder hazey, with rain, and Squall, which brought us under close Reeft Topsails. Stood to the Westward until 2 a.m., when we made a Trip to the Eastward, and afterwards stood to the Westward until Noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in the Latitude of 42 degrees 23 minutes South. Course and distance sail'd South 74 degrees West, 54 Miles; Longitude made from Cape West 5 degrees 55 minutes East. Tack'd and stood to the Eastward.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 20th, we met with contrary winds, which carried us away to the west-ward; but, the wind coming favourable again, we resumed our former course, and came up with a head of land which we named Cape Foul Wind.
19th March 1770
[Off West Coast of South Island, New Zealand]
In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at South-West by West and
West-South-West, which we made the most of until 6, when we shortned
sail, and at 10 brought too, and sounded 115 fathoms, judging ourselves
to be about 5 Leagues from the land. At midnight it fell little wind, on
which account we made sail. At 8 a.m. the wind veer'd to the North-West
by North, with which we stood to the North-East close upon a wind until
noon, at which time we Tack'd, being about 3 Leagues from the land, and
by Observation in the Latitude of 42 degrees 8 minutes and Longitude from
Cape West 5 degrees 5 minutes East* (* The Endeavour had passed the mouth
of the Grey River, the district of the great coalfields of New Zealand.)
Course and distance run since Yesterday at Noon North 35 degrees East, 68
Miles; Depth of Water 65 fathoms, the land extending from North-East by
North to South-South-West.
18th March 1770
[Off West Coast of South Island, New Zealand]
In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at South-West by West,
attended with drizzling rain. At 8, being about 3 Leagues from the land,
shortned sail, and brought too, having run 10 Leagues North-East by East
since noon; at this time had 44 fathoms, and 2 hours before had 17
fathoms, fine sandy bottom, being then about 1 League from the land. Had
it Calm the most part of the Night, and until 10 a.m., when a light
breeze sprung up at South-West by West. We Made sail along shore
North-East by North, having a large swell from the West-South-West, which
had risen in the Night. At Noon Latitude in per Observation 43 degrees 4
minutes South; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday is North 54
degrees East, 54 Miles; Longitude made from Cape West 4 degrees 12
minutes East. The Mountains and some of the Vallies we observed this
morning were wholy cover'd with Snow, part of which we suppos'd to have
fallen in the P.M. and fore part of the Night, at the time that we had
rain--and yet the weather is not Cold.* (* They did not see Mount Cook,
12,300 feet high, and the highest mountain in New Zealand; no doubt the
summit was in the clouds.)
17th March 1770
[Off the New Zealand Sounds]
Continued our Course along shore, having in the P.M. the
advantage of a fresh Gale at South-West. At 2, past by the point
afore-mentioned, which is of a Moderate height, with deep Red Clifts,
down which falls 4 Small streams of Water, on which account it is named
Cascades Point. Latitude 44 degrees 0 minutes South; Longitude 2 degrees
20 minutes East from Cape West. From this point the land at first Trends
North 76 degrees East, but afterwards more to the Northward
East-North-East, 8 Leagues. From this point and near the Shore lies a
small low Island, which bore from us South by East, distant 1 1/2
Leagues. At 7 o'Clock we Shortned sail, and brought too under the
Topsails, with her head off Shore, having 33 fathoms, and fine sandy
bottom. At 10, had 50 fathoms, and at 12, wore in 65 fathoms, having
drove about 5 Miles North-North-West since we brought too. Two hours
after this had no ground with 140 fathoms; which shews that the soundings
extend but a little way from the land. From 2 to 8 a.m. had it Calm and
hazey, with drizzling rain, at which time a breeze sprung up at
South-West, with which we steer'd along shore North-East by East 1/4
East, keeping about 3 Leagues from the land. At Noon had no Observation,
being Hazey with rain. Our run since Yesterday at Noon is North-East by
East, 55 Miles; Longitude from Cape West 3 degrees 12 minutes East.
16th March 1770
[Off the New Zealand Sounds]
Winds at South-West; a fresh breeze and Clear. Steer'd
along shore North-East 1/4 East until 6 p.m., when we Shortned Sail, and
brought too for the Night. Variation per Azimuth 13 degrees 48 minutes
East. At 4 A.M. made sail, and Stood in for the land. At daylight saw the
appearance of an inlet into the land; but upon a nearer approach found
that it was only a deep Valley, bounded on each side by high lands, upon
which we bore away North-East 1/4 East along shore, keeping about 4 or 5
miles off. At Noon the Northermost point of land in sight bore North 60
degrees East, distant 10 Miles; Latitude per Observation 44 degrees 5
minutes; Longitude made from Cape West 2 degrees 8 minutes East.
Joseph Banks Journal
Much snow on the ridges of the high hills, two were however seen on which was little or none: whatever the cause of it might be I could not guess, they were quite bare of trees or any kind of Vegetables and seemd to consist of a mouldering soft stone of the colour of Brick or light red ocre. About noon the countrey near the sea changd much for the better, appearing in broad Valleys clothd with prodigious fine woods out of which came many fine streams of water, but notwithstanding the fineness of the countrey there was not the smallest signs of inhabitants, nor indeed have we seen any since we made this land except the fire on the 4th.
15th March 1770
[Off the New Zealand Sounds]
Clear weather, Winds at South-West and South-West by
South, a Gentle breeze, except in the night, when we had variable light
Airs and Calm. In the evening, being about 2 Leagues from the land, we
sounded, but had no ground with 103 fathoms. Variation per Azimuth 14
degrees East, per Amplitude 15 degrees 2 minutes East. With what wind we
had we made the best of our way along shore to the North-East, keeping at
the distance of 2 or 3 Leagues off from the Land. At Noon we were in the
Latitude of 44 degrees 47 minutes, having run only 12 Leagues upon a
North-East 1/4 North Course since Yesterday at Noon; Longitude made from
Cape West 1 degree 3 minutes East.
Joseph Banks Journal
Little wind in the morn, towards Even a brisk breeze. The countrey today appeard coverd with steep hills, whose sides were but ill wooded but on their tops was large quantities of snow especialy on the sides that lookd towards the South. We imagind that about noon we passd by some considerable river as the sea was almost coverd with leaves, small twigs and blades of Grass. Many Albatrosses about the ship today, we have not been absolutely without them since we came on this side the land.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
Having a breeze, we sailed along the shore of the land we had passed the day before, which appeared as wild and romantic as can be conceived. Rocks and mountains, whose tops were covered with snow, rose in view one above another from the water's edge: and those near the shore were cloathed with wood, as well as some of the valleys between the hills, whose summits reached the clouds. We saw a break in the land which we thought might be a good harbour, but it proved only a small open bay, we therefore called it Mistaken Bay. As we sailed along we passed a broken point, that had a flat top, from which the water poured down into the sea, and formed three grand natural cascades. This point we named Cascades Point. On the N. E. side of it there was a bay which we called Open Bay.
14th March 1770
[Off the New Zealand Sounds]
In the P.M. had a fresh Gale from the Southward,
attended with Squalls. At 2 it Clear'd up over the land, which appeared
high and Mountainous. At 1/2 past 3 double reeft the Topsails, and hauld
in for a Bay, wherein their appear'd to be good Anchorage, and into which
I had thought of going with the Ship; but after standing in an hour, we
found the distance too great to run before dark, and it blow'd too hard
to attempt it in the night, or even to keep to Windward; for these
reasons we gave it up, and bore away along shore. This bay I have named
Dusky Bay. It lies in the Latitude of 45 degrees 47 minutes South; it is
about 3 or 4 Miles broad at the Entrance, and seems to be full as deep.
In it are several Islands, behind which there must be Shelter from all
winds, provided there is a Sufficient Depth of Water.* (* Dusky Bay is
one of the remarkable inlets known now as the New Zealand Sounds. They
are very deep, narrow fiords, running into the high mountains, that here
come close to the shore, and are much visited now for the sake of the
grandeur of the scenery. Cook visited and surveyed Dusky Bay in his next
voyage. The Endeavour had nearly as much tempestuous weather in rounding
the south end of New Zealand as she had off the North Cape; but Cook
managed to get a very fair idea of the coast, notwithstanding, by dint of
perseverance.)
The North point of this bay, when it bears South-East by
South, is very remarkable, there being off it 5 high peaked rocks,
standing up like the 4 fingers and thumb of a Man's hand; on which
account I have named it Point Five Fingers. The land of this point is
farther remarkable by being the only Level land near it, and extends near
2 Leagues to the Northward. It is pretty high, wholy cover'd with wood,
and hath very much the Appearance of an Island, by its aspect being so
very different from the Land behind it, which is nothing but barren rocky
Mountains. At Sunset the Southermost Land in sight bore due South,
distant 5 or 6 Leagues; and as this is the Westermost point of land upon
the whole Coast I have called it West Cape. It lies about 3 Leagues to
the Southward of the bay above-mentioned, in the Latitude of 45 degrees
54 minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 17 minutes West. The land of
this Cape seems to be of a moderate height next the Sea, and hath Nothing
remarkable about it that we could see, Except a very White Clift 2 or 3
Leagues to the Southward of it. The land to the Southward of Cape West
trends away towards the South-East; to the Northward of it it Trends
North-North-East and North-East. At 7 o'Clock brought the Ship too under
the Foresail, with her head off Shore, having a fresh Gale at South by
East. At Midnight it moderated, and we wore and lay her head in shore
until 4 a.m.; then made Sail, and Steer'd along shore North-East 1/2
North, having a moderate breeze at South-South-East.
At Noon we were by
observation in the Latitude 45 degrees 13 minutes South; Course and
distance sailed since Yesterday North 41 degrees East, 62 Miles;
Longitude made from Cape West 0 degrees 29 minutes East, being at this
time about 1 1/2 Leagues from Shore. Sounded, and had no ground with 70
fathoms Line. A little before Noon we passed a little Narrow opening in
the land, where there appear'd to be a very Snug Harbour,* (* Doubtful
Sound, another of the fiords mentioned in note above.) form'd by an
Island, in the Latitude of 45 degrees 16 minutes South; inland, behind
this Opening, were Mountains, the summits of which were Cover'd with Snow
that seem'd to have fallen lately, and this is not to be wondered at, for
we have found it very cold for these 2 days past. The land on each side
the Entrance of this Harbour riseth almost perpendicular from the Sea to
a very considerable Height; and this was the reason why I did not attempt
to go in with the Ship, because I saw clearly that no winds could blow
there but what was right in or right out, that is, Westerly or Easterly;
and it certainly would have been highly imprudent in me to have put into
a place where we could not have got out but with a wind that we have
lately found to blow but one day in a Month. I mention this because there
was some on board that wanted me to harbour at any rate, without in the
least Considering either the present or future Consequences.
Joseph Banks Journal
Stood along shore with a fair breeze and passed 3 or 4 places that had much the appearance of harbours, much to my regret who wishd to examine the mineral appearances from which I had formd great hopes. The countrey rose immediately from the sea side in steep hills which however were tolerably coverd with wood; behind these were another ridge of hills coverd in many places with snow, which from its pure whiteness and smoothness in the morn and the many cracks and intervals that appeard among it at night we conjecturd to be newly falln.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 14th, we sailed along shore with a pleasant breeze; the land rose immediately from the water's edge to a very great height. Some of the highest hills were covered with snow, and the others with wood; but we saw no signs of inhabitants. We passed several breaks in the land, which might be good harbours, but we did not enter into any of them. We saw, this day, a great number of albatrosses.
13th March 1770
[Off South Cape of New Zealand]
Strong Gale between the South-West by West and
South-South-West, with a large Hollow sea from the same Quarter. In the
P.M. had frequent Squalls, with Showers of rain; in the night had several
very heavy squalls, attended with Showers of Hail, which obliged us to
take in our Topsails. During the night steer'd North-North-West until 6
a.m., when, seeing no land, we steer'd North by East, and set the Main
Topsail, single reeft. At 8 set the Foretopsail, single reeft, and loosed
all the Reefs out of the Maintopsail, and Steer'd North-East by East 1/2
East in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing East-North-East, and
appeared to be very high; but, being hazey over it, we could see nothing
distinct neither now nor at Noon, when, by Observation, we were in the
Latitude of 46 degrees 0 minutes South. Course and distance Sailed since
Yesterday North 5 degrees West, 96 Miles. Longitude made from the South
Cape 1 degree 40 minutes West.
Joseph Banks Journal
Wind fair but still blew fresh with very unsetled weather. In the evening we saw a harbour, stood in towards it and found it to have all the appearances of a good one but it was too late to stand near. The countrey about it was high inland tho not so much so as that seen on the 11th as there was no snow on any part of it. Here were veins in the rocks, very large, filld with a whiteish appearance different from what we saw on the 9th. The sides of the hills appeard to be well wooded and the countrey in general as fertile as in so hilly a countrey could be expected, but not the least signs of inhabitants.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 13th, we sailed along the western coast with a very brisk breeze from the south. The land appeared very romantic, having mountains piled on mountains to an amazing height; but they seemed to be uninhabited. We saw the appearance of some good harbours, one of which, larger than the rest, we called Doubtful Harbour; but night coming on we did not venture into any of them.
12th March 1770
[Off South Cape of New Zealand]
Fresh Gales between the West and North-West; latter part
squally, with rain. Stood to the South-West by South until 11 a.m., at
which time the wind shifted to the South-West by West. We wore, and stood
to the North-North-West, being then in the Latitude of 47 degrees 40
minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 50 minutes West, having a Hollow
Sea from the South-West.
Joseph Banks Journal
Blew hard all day: immense quantities of Albatrosses and other sea birds were seen which we had been without for some time.
11th March 1770
[Off South Cape of New Zealand]
Winds between the West and North-West, a fresh Gale, and
Clear weather. Stood away North-North-East close upon a wind without
seeing any land until 2 A.M., when we discover'd an Island bearing
North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Two hours after this we saw
the Land ahead, upon which we Tackt and stood off until 6 o'Clock; then
stood in, in order to take a nearer View of it. At 11, being about 3
Leagues from the land, and the wind seem'd to incline on Shore, we Tackt
and stood off to the Southward. And now we thought that the land to the
Southward, or that we have been sailing round these 2 days past, was an
Island, because there appeared an Open Channell between the North part of
that land and the South part of the other in which we thought we saw the
Small Island we were in with the 6th Instant; but when I came to lay this
land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken, it appeared
that there was but little reason to suppose it an Island. On the
contrary, I hardly have a doubt but what it joins to, and makes a part
of, the Mainland,* (* Cook was deceived, as Stewart is an island.) the
Western extremity of which bore at Noon North 59 degrees West, and the
Island seen in the Morning* (* This was called by Cook Solander Island.)
South 59 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 24
minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 49 minutes West. It is nothing but a
barren rock of about a Mile in Circuit, remarkably high, and lies full 5
Leagues from the Main. The shore of the Main lies nearest East by South
and West by North, and forms a large open bay, in which there is no
appearance of a Harbour or other place of safety for shipping against
South-West and Southerly winds. The face of the Country bears a very
rugged Aspect, being full of high craggy hills, on the Summits of which
were several patches of Snow. However, the land is not wholy barren; we
could see wood, not only in the Valleys, but on several of the Hills; but
we saw no signs of inhabitants.
Joseph Banks Journal
Fresh gales still and wind that will not let us get to the northward. We stood in with the shore which provd very high and had a most romantick appearance from the immence steepness of the hills, many of which were conical and most had their heads coverd with snow, on their sides and bottoms was however a good deal of wood, so much we could see and no more and the wind baulking us would not let us stand nearer the shore than two leagues.
10th March 1770
[Off South Cape of New Zealand]
P.M. Moderate breezes at North-West by North and North
with which we stood close upon a Wind to the Westward. At sunset the
Southermost point of land, which I afterwards named South Cape,* (* South
Cape is the southern point of Stewart Island. Cook's position for it is
wonderfully exact.) and which lies in the Latitude of 47 degrees 19
minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich, bore
North 38 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Westermost land in
sight bore North 2 degrees East. This last was a small Island, lying off
the point of the Main.* (* Long Island, which lies, with others, on the
west side of Stewart Island.) I began now to think that this was the
Southermost land, and that we should be able to get round it by the West,
for we have had a large hollow swell from the South-West ever since we
had the last gale of wind from that Quarter, which makes one think there
is no land in that direction. In the Night it began to blow, so that at
or before daylight we were brought under our 2 Courses; but at 8 a.m. it
fell moderate, and we set the Topsails close Reeft, and the Mizn and Mizn
Staysail being split, we unbent them and bent others. At Noon, the wind
Coming at West, we Tackt and stood to the Northward, having no land in
sight; our Latitude by observation was 47 degrees 33 minutes South,
Longitude West from the South Cape 0 degrees 59 minutes.
Joseph Banks Journal
Blew fresh all day but carried us round the Point to the total demolition of our aerial fabrick calld continent.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 10th, we stood out a considerable way to sea; and, on the 11th, in the morning, fetched the land, and approached near it. It had the appearance of a cluster of islands, or a bay with a large break, being divided by a number of valleys and peaked hills, many of which were pretty well covered with wood, and had some snow on the tops of them; but we saw no signs of inhabitants. We called this bay South-West Bay, near which lies a small island, that we named Solander's Isle. Having contrary winds we were driven back as far as 47° 45' south latitude; but, the wind coming round again, we steered north-westerly, and made a point of land, which we named the West Cape. We went round this cape; on the N.E. side of which there is a small bay; we called it Dusky Bay; and the N. W. point of it we called Five Fingers Point, about which we saw several rocks.
9th March 1770
[Off South Cape of New Zealand]
P.M. Winds at North, a Gentle breeze and Clear weather.
Stood to the Westward until sunset, at which time the Extreams of the
land bore from North by East to West, distant about 7 or 8 Leagues; Depth
of Water 55 fathoms; Variation by the Amplitude 16 degrees 29 minutes
East. The wind now veer'd to the Westward, and as the weather was fine
and Moonlight we kept standing close upon a Wind to the South-West all
night. At 4 a.m. Sounded, and had 60 fathoms; at daylight we discover'd
under our lee bow Ledges of Rocks, on which the Sea broke very high,
extending from South by West to West by South, and not above 3/4 of a
Mile from us; yet upon sounding we had 45 fathoms, a Rocky bottom. The
wind being at North-West we could not weather the Ledge, and as I did not
care to run to leeward, we tackt and made a Trip to the Eastward; but the
wind soon after coming to the North enabled us to go clear of all. Our
soundings in passing within the Ledge was from 35 to 47 fathoms, a rocky
bottom. This Ledge lies South-East, 6 Leagues from the Southermost part
of the Land, and South-East by South from some remarkable hills which
stand near the Shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lay here,
for about 3 Leagues to the Northward of them is another Ledge of Rocks,
laying full 3 Leagues from the land, whereon the Sea broke very high. As
we passed these rocks in the night at no great distance, and discover'd
the others close under our Lee at daylight, it is apparent that we had a
very fortunate Escape. I have named them the Traps, because they lay as
such to catch unweary Strangers.* (* The dangerous Traps lie south and
east of the South Island of New Zealand. The Endeavour had now at last
got to the southward of the land. There is a small but high rock farther
south, the Snares, that Cook did not sight this voyage.) At Noon our
Latitude per observation was 47 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude made
from Cape Saunders 3 degrees 4 minutes West, the land in sight--which has
very much the appearance of an Island* (* South or Stewart
Island.)--extending North-East by North to North-West by West, distant
from the Shore about 4 or 5 Leagues; the Eastermost ledge of rocks bore
South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Leagues; and Northermost North-East 1/2
East, 3 Leagues. This land is of a moderate height, and has a very barren
Aspect; not a Tree to be seen upon it, only a few Small Shrubs. There
were several white patches, on which the sun's rays reflected very
strongly, which I take to be a kind of Marble such as we have seen in
many places of this Country, particularly to the Northward.
Joseph Banks Journal
At the first dawn of day a ledge of rocks were discoverd right to leward and very near us, so we had much reason to be thankfull that the wind in the night had been very gentle otherwise we must in all human probability have ran right among them, at least we could have had no chance of escaping them but by hearing them as there was no moon. The land appeard barren and seemd to end in a point to which the hills gradualy declind--much to the regret of us Continent mongers who could not help thinking this, a great swell from SW and the broken ground without it a pretty sure mark of some remarkable Cape being here. By noon we were pretty near the land which was uncommonly barren; the few flat places we saw seemingly produc'd little or nothing and the rest was all bare rocks, which were amazingly full of Large Veins and patches of some mineral that shone as if it had been polishd or rather lookd as if they were realy pavd with glass; what it was I could not at all guess but it certainly was some mineral and seemd to argue by its immense abundance a countrey abounding in minerals, where if one may judge from the corresponding latitudes of South America in all human probability something very valuable might be found.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
We had light breezes and calms till the ninth; and, at the dawn of that day, we narrowly escaped running the ship upon a ledge, or parcel of craggy rocks; some of which were but just seen above water. They were luckily discovered by the midshipman's going to the mast head. The breeze being moderate, we put the helm a-lee, and were delivered from this imminent danger by the good providence of God. The land, which we then saw at a considerable distance, seemed to be an island, having a great opening between it and the land which we had passed before; but, the captain designing to go round, we steered for the south point, hoping it was the last. This large opening we named South-East Bay; on the N. W. side of which there is a small long island, that we ca11ed Bench Island. We stood out to sea, but, meeting with contrary winds, we beat to windward for a considerable time: at length, the wind coming fair; we steered westerly, and, unexpectedly, found ourselves between two large shoals, which had some rocks upon them; but we fortunately escaped them. We called these shoals The Traps. Toward night, we got so far round as to make the point bear N. N. E. and then we saw some kind of stuff upon it that glittered very much, but could not discover what it was composed of. This day the weather was more moderate than it had been for many days; and being one of the inferior officers birth day, it was celebrated by a peculiar kind of festival; a dog was killed that had been bred on board; the hind quarters were roasted; and a pye was made of the fore quarters, into the crust of which they put the fat; and of the viscera they made a haggis.
8th March 1770
[Off South Part of South Island, New Zealand]
Light Airs next to a Calm from South-South-East to
North-East, with which we kept Steering to the South-West, but made but
little way because of a swell which took us right ahead. At daylight A.M.
we saw, or thought we saw, from the Masthead, the land which we have left
to the Northward of us joined to that to the South-West of us; and at the
same time we imagined we saw the land extend to the Southward as far as
South-South-West; but after steering this Course until noon we discovered
our Mistake, for there was no land to be seen to the Southward of West,
which Course we now steer'd, being by observation in the Latitude of 47
degrees 12 minutes; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 2 minutes
West.
Joseph Banks Journal
Little wind and fair, which carried us to the Southward far enough to ascertain that the appearance seen to the Southward in the eve of the 6th was nothing but clouds, tho from its fixd and steady appearance nobody at that time doubted in the least its being land.
7th March 1770
[Off South Part of South Island, New Zealand]
Light Airs in the South-West quarter. P.M. Clear weather,
remainder dark and Cloudy. In the P.M. found the Variation per several
Azimuths, and the Amplitude to be 15 degrees 10 minutes East, and by the
Amplitude in the morning to be 15 degrees 56 minutes East. Stood to the
South-East until 8 a.m., then tack'd and stood to the North-West; but it
soon after fell Calm, and continued so until noon, when by our account we
were in the Latitude of 47 degrees 6 minutes South, and had made 12 Miles
Easting since Yesterday at Noon.
Joseph Banks Journal
Almost calm so we remaind in the same place nearly all day, to[o] far from the land to see any thing of it at least to depend upon our observations.
6th March 1770
[Off South Part of South Island, New Zealand]
P.M. Winds at South by East and South-East, and thick hazey
weather until 3 o'clock, when it clear'd up, and we saw the land
extending from North-East by North to North-West 1/2 North, and soon
after low land, making like an Island, bearing West 1/2 South. Keeping on
our Course to the West by South, we in 2 hours' time saw high land over
the low, extending to the Southward as far as South-West by South; we
could not see this land join to that to the Northward of us, there either
being a total seperation, a deep Bay, or low land between them. At 8
o'Clock, being within 3 Leagues of the low land (which we now took to be
an Island* (* Ruapuke Island.)), we Tack'd and stood to the Eastward,
having the wind at South, which proved very unsettled all night; by which
means, and a little bad management, I found the Ship in the morning
considerably farther to the Eastward than I expected, and the wind
afterwards coming to South-West and West-South-West, so that at noon we
found ourselves much about the same place as we were Yesterday, our
Latitude by observation being 46 degrees 50 minutes South, the land
extending from North-East by East to West by North 1/2 North, the nearest
part bearing North, distance 3 Leagues; the land to the South-West just
in sight.
Joseph Banks Journal
Very moderate and exceedingly clear. Land seen as far as South so our unbeleivers are almost inclind to think that Continental measures will at last prevail.
5th March 1770
[Off South Part of South Island, New Zealand]
Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North by East. Half
past 1 saw Land bearing West by South, which we steer'd for; before dark
we were within 3 or 4 Leagues of it, and seeing no land farther to the
South we were in hopes this would prove the Southern point. At 7 shortned
sail, and kept under an easy sail all night, standing to the
West-South-West, having the wind at North-West, and North-North-West
until 2 a.m., when it fell Calm, and soon after a breeze sprung up at
South-East by South, and daylight coming on we made sail. During the
whole night we saw a large fire upon the land; a certain sign of its
being inhabited. At 7 the Extreams of the land bore from North 38 degrees
East to West 6 minutes South, being distant from the Shore about 3
Leagues. The land appear'd of a Moderate height, and not hilly. At 1/2
past 10 o'Clock the westermost land in sight bore West 1/2 North, distant
7 Leagues; at Noon had fresh Gales at South-South-East, and thick hazey
weather with rain. Our Latitude by account was 46 degrees 50 minutes
South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 56 minutes West.*
(* The ship was now off the south point of the South Island.)
Joseph Banks Journal
Thick misty weather, the smoak of last nights fire still in sight. A point of land seen this morn which inclind much to the Westward was supposd by the no Continents the end of the land; towards even however it cleard up and we Continents had the pleasure to see more land to the Southward.
4th March 1770
[Off Otago, South Island, New Zealand]
At 4 p.m. the Wind coming to the Northward we stood to the
Westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning got up
Topgallant yards, and set the sails; found the Variation to be 16 degrees
16 minutes East. Saw several Whales, Seals, and one Penguin; this bird
was but Small of the sort, but seem'd to be such a one as we had never
seen before. We have seen several Seals since we passed the Straits, but
never saw one upon the whole Coast of Aeheinomouwe. We sounded both in
the Night and the morning, but found no bottom with 150 fathoms Line; at
Noon we saw Cape Saunders bearing North 1/2 West; our Latitude by
observation was 46 degrees 31 minutes South.* (* The Endeavour had been
blown off the land for seven days, and had barely recovered her
position.)
Joseph Banks Journal
Pleasant weather and fair wind so that we ran in towards the land. In the morn 1 or 2 Penguins were about us that swam as fast as the ship saild making a noise something like the shreiking of a goose; the[y] seemd to be like Diomedaea demersa but whether they were or not I cannot be certain. In the evening ran along shore but kept so far of that little could be seen; a large smoak was however, which at night shewd itself in an immence fire on the side of a hill which we supposd to be set on fire by the natives; for tho this is the only sign of people we have seen yet I think it must be an indisputable proof that there are inhabitants, tho probably very thinly scatterd over the face of this very large countrey.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 4th of March, after having beat about near a week, by the favour of a breeze from the north, we got fight of land again, which tended away to the S. W. and by W. and appeared to be of great extent. We had a continual rolling swell from the S. W. and saw the appearance of a harbour, which we named Moulineux's Harbour, after the name of the master of our ship.
2nd & 3rd March 1770
[Off Otago, South Island, New Zealand]
Strong Gales from the West, with heavy Squalls, attended
with showers of rain. In the P.M. Stood to the Southward till half-past
3, when being in the Latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South and Longitude
188 degrees 00 minutes West, and seeing no Visible signs of Land, we
Tack'd and Stood to the Northward, having a very large swell from the
South-West by West. Soon after we tack'd we close reef'd the Topsails,
and in the night were obliged to hand them, but at day light set them
again. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 46 degrees 42 minutes
South, Cape Saunders bearing North 46 degrees West, distant 68 Miles.
3rd. P.M. Wind and weather as Yesterday. A.M. quite Moderate,
yet the South-West swell continues, which makes me conjecture that there
is no land near in that quarter. At Noon our Latitude was 46 degrees 42
minutes South, being East of Cape Saunders 1 degree 30 minutes.
1st March 1770
[Off Otago, South Island, New Zealand]
Winds between the South-West and North-North-West, a
fresh gale. In the P.M. found the Variation to be 16 degrees 34 minutes
East. At 8 Tack'd and Stood to the Southward, with the wind at West,
which before the morning veer'd to North-West, accompanied with hazey
weather and drizzling rain; at day light loosed a reef out of Each
Topsail, and set some of the small sails. At Noon our Latitude by account
was 47 degrees 52 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1
degree 8 minutes East.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)