Fresh breezes at South-West and clear weather with a
heavy swell first from the West, then from the South-West. At 8 a.m.
loosed the 2nd Reef out of the Topsails; at noon clear weather, no land
in sight. The North Cape bore South 25 degrees East, distant 24 Leagues.
Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South.
20th December 1769
[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
P.M., Fresh breezes at West by North, and Clear weather.
At 6 Tack'd and stood off, North Cape bore South, distant 3 or 4 Miles.
At 4 a.m. Tack'd and stood in, Wind at West-North-West a fresh breeze,
but at 9 it increased to a Strong Gale with heavy squalls attended with
Thunder and Rain, which brought us under our Courses. At 11 it Cleared up
and the Wind came to West-South-West; we set the Topsails, double Reef'd
and Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon, a Stiff Gale and Clear
weather; Latitude observed 34 degrees 14 minutes South. North Cape
South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues.
19th December 1769
The wind still continues at West. P.M., a moderate breeze
and Clear weather. At 7 Tack'd in 35 fathoms; the point of land before
mentioned bore North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Miles, having not
gained one inch to windward this last 24 hours, which is a great proof
that there must be a Current setting to the Eastward. The Point of Land above mentioned I
have called North Cape, judging it to be the Northermost Extremity of
this Country. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and
Longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West from Greenwich,* (* This position
is very correct.) and North 63 degrees West 31 Leagues from Cape Brett;
it forms the North Point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula juting out
North-East about 2 Miles, and Terminates in a Bluff head which is flatt
at Top. The Isthmus which joins this head to the Mainland is very low, on
which account the land off the Cape from several situations makes like an
Island. It appears still more remarkable when to the Southward of it by
the appearance of a high round Island at the South-East Point of the
Cape; but this is likewise a deception, being a round hill join'd to the
Cape by a low, narrow neck of Land; on the South-East side of the Cape
there appears to be anchorage, and where ships must be covered from
South-East and North-West winds. We saw a Hippa or Village upon the Cape
and some few inhabitants. In the night had some Squalls attended with
rain, which obliged us to take another Reef in our Topsails. At 8 a.m.
Tack'd and stood in Shore, and being moderate loosed a Reef out of each
Topsail and set the small sails. At noon we were in the Latitude of 34
degrees 2 minutes South, and being hazey over the land we did not see it.
Joseph Banks Journal
Stood out to sea last night: tonight were in with the land and found we had gaind something as we did also the last time we stood far off, which made the seamen conclude that some small current along shore must be the reason why we could never get any thing by our short trips.
18th December 1769
Moderate breezes at West and West-North-West and Clear
weather. At 4 p.m. Tack'd and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet
with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as
we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack'd and stood
off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack'd and stood in, being about 10
Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to
yesterday at noon bore South-South-West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude
observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.
Joseph Banks Journal
Still more to leeward this morn and in the even still more. On a rock pretty near us an Indian fort was seen through our glasses which we all thought was encircled with a mud wall; if so tis the only one of the kind we have seen.
17th December 1769
A Gentle breeze between the South-West by West and West
with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no
ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack'd in 108 fathoms 3 or 4
miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the
North-West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South-West,
distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11
Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West;
Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work
repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late
blowing weather.
Joseph Banks Journal
This morn we were in with the land which trends a little to the Southward so we hoped that our troubles are nearly at an end; during the days turning however we contrivd to lose near a leag[u]e, no great comfort to us.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 17th, in the morning, we were near land again, which seemed to be the farthest north, the land tending away from this point, which we called the North Cape to the South West. This land was pretty high, with a table top. We saw no canoes, nor any inhabitants; but, in the evening, we saw some smoke on the high land.
16th December 1769
[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Fresh breezes between the South by West and South-West.
Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from
the Mast Head bearing South-South-West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set
the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard.
At Noon, Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since
Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in
sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.
Joseph Banks Journal
We stood out to sea yesterday and last night so that we could in the morn only Just see the land from the mast head: stood in for it and at night made it plain.
15th December 1769
Fresh Gales at South-West, and for the most part clear
weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack'd and Stood
to the South-East until 8 a.m., and then Tack'd and stood to the Westward
with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude
of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes
West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we
used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.
Joseph Banks Journal
More moderate but not more fair: we begin to think this Cape our Ne plus ultra.
Interesting posting from The Beagle, some 66 years later in the same seas : http://darwinbeagle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/31st-december-1835.html
14th December 1769
[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Strong Gales at West and West-South-West with Squalls at
times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the
Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West,
distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses,
having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and
Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the
North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9
Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since
Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry
and repair the Damaged Sails. At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather,
Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West
being the same North-Westermost land we have seen before, and which I
take to be the Northern Extremity of this Country, as we have now a large
swell rowling in from the Westward which could not well be, was we
covered by any land on that point of the Compass.* (* The Endeavour was
now to the northward of the north point of New Zealand.)
13th December 1769
Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and
fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and
stood to the North-East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel
and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10
it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails;
at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and
stood again to North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of
the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to
blow very hard at North-North-West with heavy squalls attended with rain,
this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a
manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard.
At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At
Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the
Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the
Coast.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 13th, the N. W. wind still prevailing, we could do nothing but lie on and off the land, without. making any way. It blew very hard, and we had some fierce squalls, attended with heavy showers of rain, which drove us back to where we had been four days before.
12th December 1769
[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North
and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at
Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude
observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.
11th December 1769
Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept
plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the
Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set
yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.
Joseph Banks Journal
Wind as heard hearted as ever: we turnd all day without loosing any thing, much to the credit of our old Collier, who we never fail to praise if she turns as well as this.
10th December 1769
[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle
breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12
degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the
Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to
the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open
Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other,
being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which
juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West
by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a
high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we
called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186
degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the
bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce
Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren
than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the
Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white
sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel
with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu
Bay.) The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs,
Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it,
which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea. As barren as this land appears it is not without
inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on
the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to
the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to
the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes.
The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the
Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore
North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West
by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.
Joseph Banks Journal
This morn we were near the land which was as barren as it is possible to conceive: hills within hills and ridges even far inland were coverd with white sand on which no kind of vegetable was to be seen, it was conjecturd by some that the wind blow[s] the sand quite across it. Some Indian forts or Heppah's were seen and from them some canoes put off but did not overtake us.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 10th, the wind was N.W. we beat to windward, and made but little way. The land in fight was very low, and very barren, being mostly sandy, having here and there a few bushes, but scarce a tree to be seen, yet it appeared to be inhabited.
9th December 1769
[Off Northland, New Zealand]
P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening
came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us
pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle
Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South-West by West and
West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the
land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance
lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay
I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called
Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this
Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from
us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it
it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up
at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay
becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but
were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came
off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different
sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.
At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues,
and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and
the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the
Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees
44 minutes South.
Joseph Banks Journal
Fair wind tho but little of it. Many Canoes came off who shewd much fear of us and after some time said that they had heard of our Guns. Tupia at last persuaded them to come under the stern and after having bought of them some of their cloths, which they sold very fairly, began to enquire about the countrey. They told him that at the distance of three days rowing in their canoes, at a place calld Moorewhennua, the land would take a short turn to the southward and from thence extend no more to the West. This place we concluded must be Cape Maria Van Diemen, and finding these people so intelligent desird him to enquire if they knew of any Countries besides this or ever went to any. They said no but that their ancestors had told them to the NW by N or NNW was a large countrey to which some people had saild in a very large canoe, which passage took them up a month: from this expedition a part only returnd who told their countreymen that they had seen a countrey where the people eat hogs, for which animal they usd the same name (Booah) as is usd in the Islands. And have you no hoggs among you? said Tupia.--No.--And did your ancestors bring none back with them?--No.--You must be a parcel of Liars then, said he, and your story a great lye for your ancestors would never have been such fools as to come back without them. Thus much as a specimen of Indian reasoning. After much conversation our freinds left us but promisd to return at night and bring with them fish, which they did and sold it very reasonably.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 9th, many canoes came off to us, of which we bought a good quantity of fish. The land hereabout looked very barren, and tends away to the north.
8th December 1769
Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West,
with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands.
They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7
Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point
Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North. We were
here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of
Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at
South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for
them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to
South-West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening
to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East.
Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 A.M., at
which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues
off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore
South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore
West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in
per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.
6th - 7th December 1769
[Sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand]
6th P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which
we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the
evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the
tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were
very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air
from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought
ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock* (*
Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour's chart) and went immediately clear
without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the
Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms,
but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West
from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South-East side
of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9
o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze
springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett
bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34
degrees 59 minutes South.
7th. P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather.
At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean
result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the
Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been
against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the
Westward.
5th December 1769
P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a
fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited
another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our
Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board
a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I
still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for
the Ship's Company's breakfast. At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at
South-East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near
Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not
got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes
South. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape
Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands, on account
of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several
safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water
sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the
South-West side of South-Westermost Island, that lies on the South-East
side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it
would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it;
besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with
Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment
for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish.
Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by
far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various
sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several
other sorts. Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with
Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large
made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the
same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever
saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this
fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line. The
inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we
have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another,
although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head. They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of
Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature
hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people
themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change
of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls
upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I
have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea-Coast, that the flood
comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that
there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to
the South-East or South-South-East, as the Land lays.
Joseph Banks Journal
A small spirt of fair wind before day break made us heave up the anchor in a great hurry, but before we were well underway it was as foul as ever so we were obligd to atempt turning out. Many canoes came from all parts of the bay which is by far the most populous place we have been in. In the middle of the day we were becalmd and caught many fish with hooks. About 10 at night as we were going through the outer heads on a sudden we wer[e] becalmd so that the ship would neither wear nor stay: in a moment an eddy tide took hold of us and hustled us so fast towards the land that before the Officers resolvd what was best to be done the ship was within a Cables lengh of the breakers, we had 13 fathom water but the ground so foul that they dar'd not drop an anchor. The eddy now took another turn and set her along shore opening another bay but we were too near the rocks to trust to that: the pinnace was orderd to be hoisted out in an instant to take the ship in tow, Every man in her was I beleive sensible of the Danger we were in so no one spard to do his best to get her out fast. The event however shewd how liable such situations must be to Confusion: they lowerd down too soon and she stuck upon a gun: from this she must be thrust by main force, in doing which they had almost ove[r]set her which would have tumbled out her oars: no man thought of running in the gun: at last that was done and she was afloat, her crew was soon in her and she went to her duty. A faint breeze of wind now sprung up off the land and with that and towing she to our great Joy got head way again, at a time when she was so near the shore that Tupia who was not sensible of our danger was conversing with the Indians ashore, who made themselves very distinctly heard notwithstanding the roaring of the breakers.
We were all happy in our breeze and fine clear moonlight; myself went down to bed and sat upon my cott undressing myself when I felt the ship strike upon a rock, before I could get upon my leggs she struck again. I ran upon deck but before I could get there the danger was over; fortunately the rock was to wind ward of us so she went off without the least damage and we got into the proper channel, where the officers who had examind the bay declard there to be no hidden dangers--much to our satisfaction as the almost certainty of being eat as soon as you come ashore adds not a little to the terrors of shipwreck.
Sydney Parkinson Journal
We weighed anchor, but were becalmed at the entrance of the bay, which we called the Bay of Islands, from the many islands in it. However, as it frequently happens in life, a lesser evil secured us from a greater; being detained here, we escaped a severe gale at sea, that might have proved very dangerous to us, as the wind blew a perfect hurricane, one day, accompanied with heavy showers of rain.
The natives (being more sensible of our power) behaved very civil, and brought us a great many fish; and while we lay here, we caught some ourselves with hook and line.
A canoe came into the bay that had eighty people in her, most of whom paddled; the chiefs wore garments of dogs skins, and were very much tataowed; the men upon their hips, and the women on their breast, necks, and bellies. We saw many plantations of the Koomarra, and some of the Eaowte, or cloth trees.
4th December 1769
Image: View of the Hippa on the island of Motuaro in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand (Sydney Parkinson)
Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West;
very fair weather. P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon
one of the Islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua) on the North side of the one
the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath
upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here
are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as
well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m.
sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut
Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a
point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the
inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed,
which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys
of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles.
After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place,
and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but
these we did not go to.
We afterwards went a little way into the Country,
and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of
Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the
Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty
rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay
of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much
incumbered with wood. We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being
the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make
their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the
Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at
their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the
use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the
extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we
had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so
much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few
places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more
than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and
likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the
least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among
them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least
that we have seen.
Joseph Banks Journal
Our Old man came on board and brought with him his brother who had been shot with small shot on the 29th; it had slanted along his thigh which I suppose had not less than 100 shotts in it. This wound was likewise without any application and seemd to give him little or no pain but was crusted over with a hard crust, natures plaister, equal maybe when she chuses to apply it to any that art has contrivd.
After breakfast we went ashore at a large Indian fort or heppah; a great number of people immediately crouded about us and sold almost a boat load of fish in a very short time. They then went and shewd us their plantations which were very large of Yamms, Cocos, and sweet potatoes; and after having a little laught at our seine, which was a common kings seine, shewd us one of theirs which was 5 fathom deep and its lengh we could only guess, as it was not stretchd out, but it could not from its bulk be less than 4 or 500 fathom. Fishing seems to be the cheif business of this part of the countrey; about all their towns are abundance of netts laid upon small heaps like hay cocks and thatchd over and almost every house you go into has netts in it making.
After this they shewd us a great rarity 6 plants of what they calld Aouta from whence they made cloth like the Otahite cloth; the plant provd exactly the same, as the name is the same, as is usd in the Islands, Morus papyrifera Linn., the same plant as is usd by the Chinese to make paper. Whether the Climate does not well agree with it I do not know, but they seemd to value it very much and that it was very scarce among them I am inclind to beleive, as we have not yet seen among them peices large enough for any use but sticking into the holes of their Ears.
In the afternoon we went to a very distant part of the bay, the people here were very few. All but one old man ran away from us; he accompanied us where ever we went and seemd much pleasd with the little presents we made him. Near where we landed was a little fort built upon a small rock, surrounded by the sea at high water and accessible only by a ladder. We expressd a desire to go there; he said there was his wife but if we would promise to practice no indecencies towards her he would accompany us; this we most readily did and he was as good as his word. The ascent was so difficult that tho there were stepps and a pole we found it dangerous enough. When we came up there were in it 3 women who on our first coming cried, but presents soon put them into better humour. There were in all only 3 houses, but the situation as I have before describd was so steep that the inhabitants of them might easily defend themselves against almost any force that could be brought against them.
3rd December 1769
[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle
breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and
one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.
Joseph Banks Journal
Many Canoes were on board in the morn, one very large which carried 82 people. After breakfast Dr Solander and myself went ashore on the Continent; we found few plants and saw but few people but they were most perfectly civil; we went by their invitation to their little town which was situated in the bottom of a cove without the least defence. One of the old men here shewd us the instruments with which they stain their bodies which was exactly like those usd at Otahite. We saw also here the man who was shot at on the 29th in atempting to steal the Buoy; the ball had gone through the fleshy part of his arm and grazd his breast; the wound was open to the air without the smallest application upon it yet it had as good an appearance and seemd to give him as little pain as if he had had the best dressings to it. We gave him a musquet ball and with a little talking to he seemd very fully sensible of the escape he had had.
In the Even we went ashore on another Island where were many more people than we had seen in the morn, who livd in the same peacable stile and had very large plantations of sweet potatoes, yamms etc. all about their village. They receivd us much as our freinds in the morning had done and like them shewd much satisfaction at the little presents of necklaces etc. which were given to them.
2nd December 1769
[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the
remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m.
hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace
to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to
blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one
Turn of water and but a very few fish.
Joseph Banks Journal
Boats went ashore on the Island again. I do not know what tempted Dr Solander and myself to go there where we almost knew nothing was to be got but wet skins, which we had very sufficiently for it raind all the time we were ashore as hard as I ever saw it.
1st December 1769
Winds at North-North-West a Gentle breeze. At 3
p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to
the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The
place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small
Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise
several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and
Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto
met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship.
In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought
us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary,
I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in
the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and
in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the
Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.
Joseph Banks Journal
Several Canoes were on board by Day break and sold some things cheifly for Indian Cloth and quart bottles. The day misty and stewy: the boats were on shore on the Island which we searchd on the 29th with so little success that we did not think it worth while to go ashore.
It is now a long time since I have mentiond their custom of Eating human flesh, as I was loth a long time to beleive that any human beings could have among them so brutal a custom. I am now however convincd and shall here give a short account of what we have heard from the Indians concerning it. At Taoneroa the first place we landed in on the Continent the boys who we had on board mentiond it of their own accords, asking whether the meat they eat was not human flesh, as they had no Idea of any animal but a man so large till they saw our sheep: they however seemd ashamd of the custom, saying that the tribe to which they belongd did not use it but that another very near did. Since that we have never faild wherever we went ashore and often when we convers'd with canoes to ask the question; we have without one exception been answerd in the affirmative, and several times as at Tolaga and today the people have put themselves into a heat by defending the Custom, which Tubia who had never before heard of such a thing takes every Occasion to speak ill of, exhorting them often to leave it off. They however as universaly agree that they eat none but the bodies of those of their enemies who are killd in war, all others are buried.
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