28th February 1770

[Off Otago, South Island, New Zealand]

Strong Gale at South-West, with a large Sea from the Same quarter. At 7 p.m. made sail under the Courses; at 8 a.m. set the Topsails close reefed. At Noon, being in the Latitude of 47 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude East from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 10 minutes, wore and stood to the Northward.

Joseph Banks Journal

Weather a little more moderate so that we got a little respite and our different occupations went on as usual. Opend today a Cask of Cabbage put up by the receipt p. 210 of this Journal which provd most excellently good, scarce at all worse for keeping in my opinion.

27th February 1770

[Off Otago, South Island, New Zealand]

A very hard gale at South-West by West, and West-South-West, with heavy squalls attended with Showers of rain, and a large hollow sea, without the least intermission the whole of this 24 Hours. We continued under our Courses from Noon until 7 P.M., when we handed the Mainsail, and lay too under the Foresail with the head to the Southward. Latitude at Noon 46 degrees 54 minutes; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 24 minutes East.

Joseph Banks Journal

Weather a little more moderate but no standing upon legs without the assistance of hands as yet: hope however that the heart of this long-winded gale is broke according to the sea phraze.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

It continued blowing hard from the S. W. we lay to all day: at length the wind abated, but continued still in our teeth. Thermometer 46.

26th February 1770

[Off Otago, Middle Island, New Zealand]

Monday, 26th. In the P.M. had the wind Whifling all round the Compass, sometimes blowing a fresh Gale, and at other times almost Calm. At 5 o'Clock it fixed at West-South-West, and soon blow'd so hard as to put us past our Topsails, and to split the foresail all to pieces. After getting another to the Yard, we continued standing to the Southward under 2 Courses. At 1 A.M. the wind Moderating, set the Topsails with one Reef out; but soon after day light the Gale increased to a Storm, with heavy Squalls, attended with rain. This brought us again under our Courses, and the Main Topsail being Split we unbent it and bent another. At 6 o'Clock the Southermost land in sight bore West by North, and Cape Saunders bore North by West, distant 8 Leagues; at Noon it bore North 20 minutes West, distant 14 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 35 minutes.

Joseph Banks Journal

Still Blew hard, in some squalls very much so. Thermometer today at noon was 48 which pinchd us a little.

25th February 1770

[Off Otago, Middle Island, New Zealand]

In the P.M. Steer'd South-West by South and South-West, edging in for the land, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale at North, which I was over desirous of making the most of, and by that means carried away the Maintop Gallant Mast and Foretopmast Steering Sail Boom; but these were soon replaced by others. Altho' we keept at no great Distance from the Shore, yet the weather was so Hazey that we could see nothing distinct upon the land, only that there were a ridge of Pretty high Hills lying Parrallel with, and but a little way from, the Sea Coast, which lies South by West and North by East, and seem'd to End in a high Bluff point to the Southward, which we run the length of by 8 o'Clock, when, being dark, and not knowing which way the Land Trended, we brought too for the night, having run 15 Leagues upon a South-West 1/2 West Course since Noon. The point bore at this time West, distant about 5 Miles, depth of Water 37 fathoms, the bottom small pebble stones.

At 4 A.M. we made Sail, but by this time the Northerly wind was gone, and was succeeded by one from the Southward, which proved very Var'ble and unsteady. At day light the point above mention'd bore North, distant 3 Leagues, and we found that the land trended away from it South-West by West, as far as we could see. This point of land I have Named Cape Saunders, in Honour of Sir Charles* (* Admiral Sir Charles Saunders was First Lord of the Admiralty in 1766. He commanded the fleet at the capture of Quebec in 1759, in which Cook served.) (Latitude 45 degrees 55 minutes South; Longitude 189 degrees 4 minutes West). It requires no discription to know it by, the Latitude and the Angle made here by the Coast will be found quite sufficient; however, there is a remarkable saddle hill laying near the Shore, 3 or 4 Leagues South-West of the Cape. From 1 to 4 Leagues North of the Cape the Shore seem'd to form 2 or 3 Bays, wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage and Shelter from South-West, Westerly, and North-West winds.* (* One of these is Otago Harbour, where lies Dunedin, perhaps the most important commercial city in New Zealand.) I had some thoughts of bearing up for one of these places in the morning when the Wind came to South-West, but the fear of loosing time and the desire I had of pushing to the Southward, in order to see as much of the Coast as possible, or, if this land should prove to be an Island, to get round it, prevented me. Being not far from the Shore all this morning, we had an Opportunity of Viewing the Land pretty distinctly; it is of a Moderate height, full of Hills, which appear'd green and Woody, but we saw not the least signs of inhabitants. At Noon Cape Saunders bore North 30 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. Latitude per Log, for we had no Observation, 46 degrees 0 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal

Wind whiffling all round the compass, at night settled at SW and blew hard.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

Variable winds and calms till the afternoon; and then we had the wind from the S. W. which was directly against us: it blow very violently, and we were obliged to go under fore and main sails; and tore our fore-sail in pieces. The land thereabout was pretty high, indifferently well covered with trees, but had no signs of inhabitants.

24th February 1770

[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand]

Calm until 6 p.m., at which time a light breeze sprung up at East-North-East, with which we steer'd South-South-East all night, edging off from the Land because of a hollow swell which we had from the South-East; depth of water from 60 to 75 fathoms. At daylight the wind began to freshen, and before noon blowed a fresh Gale, and veer'd to North-North-East; at 8 a.m. Saw the land extending as far as South-West by South, which we steer'd directly for, and at Noon we were in the Latitude of 45 degrees 22 minutes South; the land in sight extending from South-West 1/2 South to North-North-West making high and hilly. Course and distance run since Yesterday at Noon is South 15 degrees West, 47 Miles. In the P.M., while we lay becalm'd, Mr. Banks, in a small Boat, shott 2 Port Egmont Hens, which were in every respect the same sort of Birds as are found in great Numbers upon the Island of Faro; they are of a very dark brown plumage, with a little white about the under side of their wings, and are as large as a Muscovy Duck. These were the first that we have seen since we arrived upon the Coast of this Country, but we saw of them for some days before we made land.

Joseph Banks Journal

Fresh breeze of wind and fair so we went along shore briskly but kept so far off from it that no observations could be made: we can only say that we did not see any fires, other signs of people we could not have seen by reason of our distance had they been ever so numerous or conspicuous. In the evening the land ahead inclind a good deal to the West. We were now on board of two parties, one who wishd that the land in sight might, the other that it might not be a continent: myself have always been most firm for the former, tho sorry I am to say that in the ship my party is so small that I firmly beleive that there are no more heartily of it than myself and one poor midshipman, the rest begin to sigh for roast beef.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

Having beat to windward for several days without gaining any way, with the weather gloomy and very cold, on Saturday, the 24th, we had a fresh breeze from the north, which carried us round the outermost point, which we called Cape Saunders: beyond which the land tended away to the S. W.

23rd February 1770

[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand]

Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and for the most part Cloudy weather. At sunset, the weather clearing up, presented to our View a high peaked Mountain* (* There are so many lofty mountains in this region that it is impossible to identify this. This ship was now no farther south than she had been five days earlier.) bearing North-West by North, and at the same time we saw the Land more Distincter than at any time we had before, extending from North to South-West by South, the inland parts of which appear'd to be high and Mountainous. We cannot tell yet whether or no this land joins to, or makes a part of, the land we have left; from the accounts received from the Natives of Queen Charlotte's sound it ought not, because if it did it must have been impossible for us to have sail'd round it in 4 Days; besides, the Mountains inland and the soundings off the Coast seem to indicate this Country to be more extensive than any they spoke of lying to the Southward. Having a large hollow swell from the South-East, which made me expect the Wind from the same quarter, we keept plying from 7 to 15 Leagues from the land, depth of Water 44 to 70 fathoms; at Noon our Latitude, by Observation, was 44 degrees 40 minutes South; Longitude made from Banks's Island 1 degree 31 minutes West.

Joseph Banks Journal

At noon today calm which gives us hopes that we may have a fair wind. As we have now been 4 days upon nearly the same part of the coast without seing any signs of inhabitants I think there is no doubt that this part at least is without inhabitants.

22nd February 1770

[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand]

Moderate breezes between the South-East and South by West, and dark gloomy weather, with a Swell from the South-East plying to windward, keeping between 4 and 12 Leagues from the land; depth of water from 35 to 53 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. A great many Sea fowl and Grampusses about the Ship. In the A.M. Condemn'd 60 fathoms of the B.B. Cable,* (* B.B. stands for Best Bower, one of the principal cables. The hempen cables of those days were a continual cause of solicitude, and required great care.) and converted it into Junk; at Noon had no Observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be about 3 Leagues farther North than Yesterday.

Joseph Banks Journal

Still more moderate but will not let us proceed at all to the southward.

21st February 1770

[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand]

Wind at South. A fresh Gale at 2 p.m., being in 50 fathoms, and 12 Leagues from the land, we tack'd and stood in Shore until 8 o'Clock, when we Tack'd and Stood off until 4 a.m.; then Tack'd and Stood in, at 8 o'Clock being 10 Leagues from the Land; had 57 fathoms. At Noon, being in the Latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes, and 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, had 36 fathoms; notwithstanding we have Carried as much sail as the Ship could bear, it is apparent from the observed Latitudes that we have been drove 3 Leagues to leeward since Yesterday.

Joseph Banks Journal

Weather rather more moderate but still foul so that we saw again today the same part of the coast as yesterday.

20th February 1770

[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand]

All P.M. had little wind, which veer'd round from South by East to North-North-East. Steer'd South-South-West, but got very little to the Southward on account of a head Sea. At 2 o'Clock sounded in 35 fathoms, fine sandy Bottom, being about 6 Leagues from the land. At 7 o'Clock the Extreams of the land extending from South-West by South to North by West, distant from the nearest shore 6 Leagues, depth of water 32 fathoms. At 12 o'Clock it fell Calm, and continued so until 4 A.M., when a fresh breeze sprung up at South by West, with which we stood in shore West by South, 4 Leagues, our Depth of Water from 32 to 13 fathoms. In this last Depth we Tack'd and Stood off, being about 3 Miles from the Shore, which lies nearly North and South, and is here very low and flatt, and continues so up to the skirts of the hills, which are at least 4 or 5 Miles inland. The whole face of the Country appears barren, nor did we see any signs of inhabitants.* (* This is a little south of Timaru, a rising town in a fertile district; so deceptive is appearance from the sea.) Latitude at Noon 44 degrees 44 minutes South; Longitude made from Banks' Island to this land 2 degrees 22 minutes West.

Joseph Banks Journal

This morn we were close in with the land which appeard flat, sandy and very barren near the shore but rising into high hills inland. We stood in pretty near to it but saw no signs of inhabitants. W[ind] Southerly all day blowing fresh.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 20th, in the morning, we were near the land, which formed an agreeable view to the naked eye. The hills were of a moderate height, having flats that extended from them a long way, bordered by a perpendicular rocky cliff next to the sea; but, when viewed through our glasses, the land appeared very barren, having only a few trees in the valleys, or furrows of the hills, and had no signs of inhabitants. The air was very sharp and cold.

19th February 1770

[Off Banks Peninsula, New Zealand]

P.M. had a Moderate breeze at North-North-West and North until 8 o'clock, when it fell little wind, and was very unsettled until 10, at which time it fix'd at South, and freshen'd in such a manner that before the morning it brought us under our close reeft Topsails. At 8 a.m. having run 28 Leagues upon a West by North 1/2 North Course, and now judging ourselves to be to the Westward of the Land of Tovy Poenammu, we bore away North-West with a fresh Gale at South. At 10 o'clock, having run 11 Miles upon this Course, we saw land extending from the South-West to the North-West at the distance of about 10 Leagues from us, which we hauled up for. At Noon our Latitude per observation was 44 degrees 38 minutes South; the South-East point of Banks Island bore North 59 degrees 30 minutes East, distant 30 Leagues, and the Main body of the land in sight West by North. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon is North 66 degrees 45 minutes West, 96 Miles.

Joseph Banks Journal

Last night about one the officer of the watch came down to the captn with the disagreable news of land right ahead and very near, which the wind which blew strong blew directly upon; we were soon however set at ease by the Captn comeing down and telling us that it was only a white cloud. In the morn it blew hard and before noon (to our great surprize) land was indeed in sight very high and far off. Many conjectures were made whether or not it was part of the land we had left but that can only be determind by future observations. We had most of us put great confidence in the intelligence we had got of the Indians in the last anchoring place, notwithstanding Tupia had even then warnd us much not to depend upon the people who he said he was sure were liars. We had been told however at different times by the inhabitants of both the towns that the streights realy joind the two seas and that the land to the Southward might be saild round in three or four days: the first we had found to be true and from thence there appeard the highest probability that the other was so likewise, nor could we devise any reason the Indians could have in wishing to deceive us, especialy as we had ask'd the question of two different societies who we had reason to think had not had any intercourse in the intermediate time, which had made us rather stretch the bounds of probability in allowing the practicability of a canoe sailing round the first part of the land we had seen in the time given. There was however between the farthest part of both the lands a space which we had not seen of more than 20 leagues in lengh: supposing that to be a streight the Indians certainly could not see over it, and the countrey they inhabited being very thinly peopled they might at this time be ignorant that there was land beyond it. This much for conjectures, but be it remembred that they are merely such and upon a subject that future observations will most probably clear up. Tho we saw the land by noon and at that time we had a fresh breeze of Wind, yet it dropping nearly calm soon after we were at night very distant from it. We had however soundings a great way off and the land appeard very high, so that we once more cherishd strong hopes that we had at last compleated our wishes and that this was absolutely a part of the Southern continent; especialy as we had seen a hint thrown out in some books that the Duch, not contented with Tasmans discoveries, had afterwards sent other ships who took the land upon the same lat. as he made it in and followd it to the Southward as high as Lat 64¡S. 

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 19th, standing still to the westward, with a brisk breeze, in the forenoon, we discovered high land southward of us, being then, by our reckoning, thirty-three leagues to the westward, and eight southward of the land we had parted from when we sailed to the east. We hauled in our wind and stood for it.

18th February 1770

[Off Banks Peninsula, New Zealand]

Gentle breezes at North and fair weather. P.M. stood East-South-East in search of Mr. Gore's imaginary land until 7 o'clock, at which time we had run 28 Miles since Noon; but seeing no land but that we had left, or signs of any, we bore away South by West, and continued upon that Course until Noon, when we found ourselves in the Latitude of 45 degrees 16 minutes South. Our Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday is South 8 minutes East, 70 Miles; the South point of Banks Island North 6 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 28 Leagues; Variation per Amplitude this Morning 15 degrees 30 minutes. Seeing no signs of Land, I thought it to no purpose standing any farther to the Southward, and therefore hauled to the Westward, thinking we were far enough to the Southward to weather all the land we had left; but this opinion was only founded on the information we had had from the Natives of Queen Charlotte's sound.* (* The ship was still 250 miles from the south point of New Zealand.)

Joseph Banks Journal

All yesterday, last night and this morn we stood for Mr Gore's land but not seing any and at noon today finding ourselves in Lat.45..17 Every body in the ship was convincd, except possibly Mr Gore, that it was impossible to have on the 17th seen as far as where we were now, so we again stood to the Westward. At night it was Haizey and a large shoal of Bottle nosd Porpoises were about the ship, soon after which it began to flow brisk but fair.

17th February 1770

[Off Banks Peninsula, New Zealand]

P.M. stood to the Southward for the land above mention'd, with the wind at North, a fresh breeze and Clear weather. At 8 o'Clock we had run 11 Leagues since Noon, when the land extended from South-West by West to North by West, being distant from the nearest shore about 3 or 4 Leagues; in this situation had 50 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. Soon after this it fell Calm, and continued so until 6 A.M., when a light breeze sprung up at North-West, which afterwards veer'd to North-East. At sun rise, being very Clear, we plainly discover'd that the last mentioned land was an Island by seeing part of the Land of Tovy-poenammu open to the Westward of it, extending as far as West by South. At 8 o'Clock the Extreams of the Island bore North 76 degrees West and North-North-East 1/2 East, and an opening that had the Appearance of a Bay or Harbour, lying near the South point North 20 degrees West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, being in 38 fathoms, a brown Sandy bottom. This Island,* (* It is not an island, but a mountainous peninsula, still called after Mr. Banks, but from the lowness of the land it adjoins, looks like an island. On the north side is the fine harbour of Lyttelton, the port of Christchurch, a town of nearly 40,000 inhabitants. The harbour on the south side, that Cook saw, is Akaroa, a magnificent port.) which I have named after Mr. Banks, lies about 5 Leagues from the Coast of Tovy poenammu; the South point bears South 21 degrees West from the higher peak on the Snowy Mountain so often mention'd, and lies in the Latitude of 43 degrees 52 minutes South and in the Longitude of 186 degrees 30 minutes West, by observations made of the Sun and Moon this morning. It is of a circular figure, and may be about 24 Leagues in Compass; the land is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 or 15 Leagues, and of a very broken, uneven Surface, and hath more the appearance of barrenness than fertility. Last night we saw smoke up it, and this morning some people, and therefore must be inhabited. Yesterday Lieutenant Gore, having the Morning Watch at the time we first saw this Island, thought he saw land bearing South-South-East and South-East by East; but I, who was upon Deck at the same time, was very Certain that it was only Clouds, which dissipated as the Sun rose. But neither this, nor the running 14 Leagues to the South, nor the seeing no land to the Eastward of us in the Evening, could Satisfy Mr. Gore but what he saw in the morning was, or might be, land; altho' there was hardly a possibility of its being so, because we must have been more than double the distance from it at that time to what we were either last night or this morning, at both of which times the weather was Exceeding Clear, and yet we could see no land either to the Eastward or Southward of us. Notwithstanding all this, Mr. Gore was of the same opinion this morning; upon this I order'd the Ship to be wore, and to be steer'd East-South-East by Compass on the other Tack, the point on which he said the land bore at this time from us.* (* Another instance of the general desire to leave nothing unexplored.) At Noon we were in the Latitude of 44 degrees 7 minutes South; the South point of Banks Island bore North, distant 5 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal

This morn we were close onboard of the land which made in ridges not unlike the South Sea Islands (between the tropicks); the tops of these were bare but in the Valleys was plenty of wood. On the SE part was an opening which had all possible appearance of an excellent harbour; near this on the top of a hill we saw two people setting. Mr Gore notwi[th]standing Yesterdays run was of opinion that what he saw yesterday morning might be land, so he declard on the Quarter deck: on which the Captn who resolvd that nobody should say he had left land behind unsought for orderd the ship to be steerd SE.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

We saw more land which still tended away to the S.W. and, it is probable, the straits we saw is a passage between the main or land we sailed along the day before and the island or land we saw this day; or this may, perhaps, be a continuation of the larger. About the middle of this island, which we called Banks's Island, there seems to be a fine large bay. We hauled in our wind, and stood to the east, one of the lieutenants being persuaded that he saw land in that quarter; but, in the evening, we bore away to the south, and, on the 18th, Latitude 45º 16', we hauled in our wind, and stood to the west, being certain that we could not miss the land if there was any so far to the south. In the evening we saw vast shoals of grampusses and bottle-nosed porpoises.

16th February 1770

[Cape Pallisser to Banks Peninsula]

In the P.M. had a light breeze North-East, with which we steer'd West, edging in for the land, which was distant from us about 8 Leagues. At 7 o'Clock the Southermost Extream of the land in sight bore West-South-West, being about 6 Leagues from the Shore; soon after this it fell Calm, and continued so most part of the night, with sometimes light Airs from the land. At daylight we discover'd land bearing South by West, and seemingly detached from the Coast we were upon; at 8 o'Clock a breeze sprung up at North by East, and we steer'd directly for it. At Noon was in the Latitude of 43 degrees 19 minutes South; the Peak on the Snowy Mountains bore North 20 degrees East, distant 27 Leagues; the Southern Extremity we could see of that land bore West, and the land discover'd in the morning, making like an Island, extending from South-South-West to South-West by West 1/2 West, distant about 8 Leagues; our Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at Noon South-West by West, 43 Miles; Variation by this Morning's Amplitude 14 degrees 39 minutes East.

Joseph Banks Journal

Land this morn lookd fertile enough. We had now enterd upon a new Island on which few signs of inhabitants were seen: a fire however made us certain that howsoever thin they might be it was not totaly destitute of them. All day the Weather was very clear. In the morn early Mr Gore imagind that he saw land to the S. Eastward.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 16th, we sailed along shore, and had frequent calms. About noon we passed a broad opening which seemed to divide the land; on the N. W. side of which is a small bay, which we named Gore's Bay. In the evening the land tended away to the S.W. and formed in various bluff points, and was, within, of a middling height, very broken, and somewhat bare. We saw some smoke, but were not near enough to make any accurate observations. We passed also the appearance of several good harbours.

15th February 1770

[Cape Pallisser to Banks Peninsula]

In the P.M. 4 Double Canoes, in which were 57 Men, came off to the Ship; they kept at the distance of about a Stone's throw from us, and would not be prevailed upon to put alongside by all that Tupia could say to them. From this we concluded that they never had heard of our being upon the coast. At 8 p.m. a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we Stretched off South-East, because some on board thought they saw land in that Quarter. We continued on this course until 6 A.M., at which time we had run 11 Leagues, but saw no land but that which we had left. Soon after this it fell calm, and continued so for an hour; then a light breeze sprung up at West, which afterwards veer'd to the North, and we stood to the Westward. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 42 degrees 56 minutes South, and the High Land we were abreast of yesterday at Noon, North-North-West 1/2 West.

Joseph Banks Journal

Calm again: at Noon I went out and shot in less than an hour 6 Albatrosses: had the calm continued I beleive I might have shot 60, but a fair breeze of wind came which made me not much regret the loss of the rest.

14th February 1770

[Cape Pallisser to Banks Peninsula]

P.M. a fresh breeze sprung up at North-East, and we Steer'd South-West by West for the Southermost land we had in sight, which bore from us at sunset South 74 degrees West. At this time we found the Variation to be 15 degrees 4 minutes East. At 8 A.M. it fell Calm; at this time we had run 21 Leagues South 58 degrees West since Yesterday at noon, which brought us abreast of the high Snowy mountain, it bearing from us North-West in this direction. It lay behind a Mountainous ridge of nearly the same height, which riseth directly from the Sea, and runs Parrallel with the Shore, which lies North-East 1/2 North and South-West 1/2 South. The North-East end of the ridge takes its rise but a little way inland from Cape Campbell. These mountains are distinctly seen both from Cape Koamaroo and Cape Pallisser, being distant from the former South-West 1/2 South 22 Leagues, and from the Latter West-South-West 30 Leagues: but they are of a height sufficient to be seen at a much greater distance. By some on board they are thought to be much higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, which I cannot agree to; neither do I think them so high as Mount Egmont, on the South-West Coast of Aeheinomouwe, founding my opinion on the summit of the Latter being almost wholy covered with Snow, whereas it only lies upon these in patches.* (* The highest peak of the Kaikoura Mountains, Mount Tapuaepuka, is 9500 feet high. It is therefore higher than Mount Egmont, but not so high as the Peak of Teneriffe. The snow lies thicker on the western side of New Zealand mountains, so Cook's parallel was fallacious. The Endeavour was now near the Kaikoura Peninsula, where a small town stands at the present day, the shipping port of an agricultural district.) At noon was in the Latitude of 42 degrees 34 minutes South; the Southermost land we had in sight bore South-West 1/2 West, and some low land that made like an Island lying close under the foot of the Ridge North-West by North, distant about 5 or 6 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal

Shooting again, killd Nectris munda and Procellaria saltatrix. While I was out 4 Canoes came off from the shore which I had not the least suspicion of, as we were farther from the shore than ever canoes had come before. Signals were made but as the ship was right in the wake of the sun none of them were seen by us till we saw the canoes themselves, when we immedi[a]tely pulld for the ship and got aboard I beleive without the Indians ever seing us so much was their attention taken up with looking at the ship; indeed if they had no bad consequence could have ensued as they were so timourous that they hardly dard venture within call of the ship. They stayd but a little while and then went away, not time enough to get ashore before it was dark, for at sunset we saw them not more than half way between us and the shore. I had two or three oppertunities this even of seeing Albatrosses raise from the Water which they did with great ease; maybe when they are not able to do so (which I have seen) is when they are Gorgd with food.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

We passed Cook's Straits, without seeing them, on the east side of  Toaipoonamoo. The land consists of high ridges of mountains, whose tops, streaked with snow, had but little verdure upon them; and, at the bottom of them, we saw but little low land. In the afternoon, four double canoes, in which were fifty-seven people, came off to us; they had some leaves about their heads, but few cloths on their bodies, and seemed to be poor wretches. They kept aloof from us, nor could we persuade them to traffic with us.

13th February 1770

[At Cape Pallisser, New Zealand]

P.M. light Airs at South-East, the remainder Calm. At Noon found ourselves in the Latitude of 42 degrees 2 minutes South, Cape Pallisser bearing North 20 degrees East, distant 8 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal

Calm which gave me an opportunity of going out in the boat and shooting some Albatrosses. The air today was so hazey that we could scarce see the least traces of land and yet the snow on the top of the mountain was very visible.

12th February 1770

[South from Cape Turnagain to Cape Pallisser, New Zealand]

Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-East, which by sunset carried us the length of Cape Pallisser, and as the weather was clear I had an opportunity of Viewing the land of this Cape, which is of a height Sufficient to be seen in clear weather 12 or 14 Leagues, and is of a broken and hilly surface. Between the foot of the high land and the Sea is a border of low, flat land, off which lies some rocks, that appear above water. Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain the land near the shore is in many places low and flatt, and appear'd green and pleasant; but inland are many Hills. From Cape Pallisser to Cape Teerawhitte the land is tollerable high, making in Table-points, and the Shore forms 2 Bays; at least it appear'd so, for we were always too far off this part of the Coast to be particular.* (* The northern of these was the entrance to Port Nicholson, the harbour of Auckland.) The wind continued at North-East until 12 at Night, when it died away, and veer'd round to the West, and afterwards to South and South-South-East little wind, so that by noon we had advanced no farther than 41 degrees 52 minutes South Latitude. Cape Pallisser bearing North, distant 5 Leagues, and the Snowy mountain bore South 83 degrees West.

Joseph Banks Journal

This morn the seamen all imagind that we had passd the mouth of the streights when to our surprize the great snowy hill which we had seen on the 7th appeard right ahead. At nigh[t] however we were abreast of the streights which was it not for the hill might be dificult to find in Cloudy weather.

11th February 1770

[South from Cape Turnagain to Cape Pallisser, New Zealand]

PM Had light breeze from the South-East. In the night it was Calm until 9 a.m., when a Gentle breeze sprung up at East-North-East, with which we made sail to the Southward, having a large swell rolling in from that Quarter. At Noon was in the Latitude of 41 degrees 6 minutes South, distant from the Shore 1 1/2 Leagues; a remarkable hillock,* (* Castlepoint.) which stands close to the Sea, bore North 1/2 East, distance 4 Leagues. At this time 2 Canoes came alongside the Ship, with whom we had some little Traffic, and then dismissed them.

Joseph Banks Journal

Calm this morn: 2 Canoes came off and sold us a few fish and some of their fishing hooks made upon a peice of wood, which I beleive serves instead of bait in towing as the mother of Pearl does on the Islanders towing hooks. Light breeze: the land did not look to so much advantage as when we passd it in our passage to the Northward.

10th February 1770

[South from Cape Turnagain to Cape Pallisser, New Zealand]

Gentle breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. At 4 P.M. Tack'd and stood South-West until 8 A.M., when being not above 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore we Tack'd, and stood off 2 hours, and then stood again to the South-West until noon, when being in the Latitude of 41 degrees 13 minutes South, and about 2 Miles from the Shore, the land of Cape Pallisser bearing South 53 degrees West, had 26 fathoms of water.

Joseph Banks Journal

Stood along shore nearer the land than when we passd it before: it made in low hills which seemd pretty well clothd with trees but at the bottom of them was lowish land making in tables, the topps of which were coverd with white sand that through the glass had much the appearance of ripe corn; between these were a few vallies in which were wood and in one of these we saw a few houses. In the Evening the countrey rather mended upon us I suppose, as many fires were seen by which I suppose it to be better inhabited.

9th February 1770

[Complete the Circuit of North Island, New Zealand]

Gentle breezes at South and South-South-East, hazey Cloudy weather. In the P.M. 3 Canoes came off to the Ship, wherein were between 30 and 40 of the Natives, who had been pulling after us sometime. It appeared from the behaviour of these people that they had heard of our being upon the Coast, for they came alongside, and some of them on board the Ship, without shewing the least signs of fear. They were no sooner on board than they asked for Nails, but when Nails was given them they asked Tupia what they were, which was plain that they had never seen any before; yet they not only knowed how to ask for them, but know'd what use to make of them, and therefore must have heard of Nails, which they call Whow, the name of a Tool among them made generally of bone, which they use as a Chisel in making Holes, etc. These people asking so readily for Nails proves that their connections must extend as far North as Cape Kidnapper, which is 45 Leagues, for that was the Southermost place on this side the coast we had any Traffick with the Natives; and it is most probable that the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's sound got the little knowledge they seem'd to have of Iron by the Connections they may have with the Teerawhitteans bordering upon them; for we have no reason to think that the inhabitants of any part of this land had the least knowledge of Iron before we came amongst them. After a short stay these people were dismissed with proper presents, and we continued our Course along shore to the North-East until 11 o'Clock A.M., when the weather clear'd up, and we saw Cape Turnagain bearing North by East 1/4 East, distant 7 Leagues. I then called the Officers upon deck, and asked them if they were now satisfied that this land was an Island; to which they answer'd in the Affirmative, and we hauled our wind to the Eastward.* (* The Endeavour had now completely circumnavigated the North Island of New Zealand, having spent four months in the exploration. That Cook had communicated his enthusiasm to his officers is evident; or, knowing his determination to leave nothing doubtful, they would not have started the idea that the North Island might not be really an island. The natural wish after so many months' absence from civilization must have been to get back to it, and to take things for granted that would otherwise delay their progress.) At Noon our Latitude by observation was 40 degrees 55 minutes South, which is 21 Miles to the Southward of Cape Turnagain, it bearing North by East, and Cape Pallisser by this day's run bears South 43 degrees West, 19 or 20 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal

Weather rather more clear than Yesterday. On the land white chalky cliffs appeard such as we us'd to see; by 11 O'Clock Cape Turnagain was in sight which convincd every body that the land was realy an Island on which we once more turnd our heads to the southward.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

At noon, latitude south, we had a good view of Cape Turnagain. We hauled in our wind to S. W. to make the land on the other side of Cook's Straits. The coast we failed along was lower, and had many white clayey and chalky cliffs upon it. We passed two points of land to which we gave the names of Castle Point and Flat Point.