29th October 1770

[Heaving down at Batavia]

29th, 30th, & 31st. Employ'd clearing the Ship.

Joseph Banks Journal

After a stay of two days I left Tupia well satisfied in Mind but not at all better in body and returnd to town where I was immediately seizd with a tertian, the fits of which were so violent as to deprive me intirely of my senses and leave me so weak as scarcely to be able to crawl down stairs.

28th October 1770

[Heaving down at Batavia]
Employ'd as above.

Joseph Banks Journal

Accordingly on the 28th I went down with him to Kuyper and on his liking the shore had a tent pitch'd for him in a place he chose where both sea breeze and land breeze blew right over him, a situation in which he expressd great satisfaction. The Seamen now fell sick fast so that the tents ashore were always full of sick.

25th to 27th October 1770

[At Batavia]

25th. In the evening I sent the Admiralty Packet on board the Kronenburg, Captain Fredrick Kelger, Commodore, who, together with another Ship, sails immediately for the Cape, where she waits for the remainder of the Fleet.*

(* The following letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty (now in Public

Record Office) was also dispatched:--

"To Philip Stephens, Esq.

"Sir,

"Please to acquaint my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty that I left

Rio de Janeiro the 8th of December, 1768, and on the 16th of January

following arrived in Success Bay in Straits La Maire, where we recruited

our Wood and Water; on the 21st of the same month we quitted Straits La

Maire, and arrived at George's Island on the 13th of April. In our

Passage to this Island I made a far more Westerly Track than any Ship had

ever done before; yet it was attended with no discovery until we arrived

within the Tropick, where we discovered several Islands. We met with as

Friendly a reception by the Natives of George's Island as I could wish,

and I took care to secure ourselves in such a manner as to put it out of

the power of the whole Island to drive us off. Some days preceeding the

3rd of June I sent Lieutenant Hicks to the Eastern part of this Island,

and Lieutenant Gore to York Island, with others of the Officers (Mr.

Green having furnished them with Instruments), to observe the Transit of

Venus, that we may have the better Chance of succeeding should the day

prove unfavourable; but in this We were so fortunate that the

observations were everywhere attended with every favourable Circumstance.

It was the 13th of July before I was ready to quitt this Island, after

which I spent near a month in exploring some other Islands which lay to

the Westward, before we steer'd to the Southward. On the 14th of August

we discovered a small Island laying in the Latitude of 22 degrees 27

minutes South, Longitude 150 degrees 47 minutes West. After quitting this

Island I steered to the South, inclining a little to the East, until we

arrived in the Latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South, without seeing the

least signs of Land. After this I steer'd to the Westward, between the

Latitude of 30 and 40 degrees until the 6th of October, on which day we

discovered the East Coast of New Zeland, which I found to consist of 2

large Islands, extending from 34 to 48 degrees of South Latitude, both of

which I circumnavigated. On the 1st of April, 1770, I quitted New Zeland,

and steer'd to the Westward, until I fell in with the East Coast of New

Holland, in the Latitude of 30 degrees South. I coasted the shore of this

Country to the North, putting in at such places as I saw Convenient,

until we arrived in the Latitude of 15 degrees 45 minutes South, where,

on the night of the 10th of June, we struck upon a Reef of Rocks, were we

lay 23 Hours, and received some very considerable damage. This proved a

fatal stroke to the remainder of the Voyage, as we were obliged to take

shelter in the first Port we met with, were we were detain'd repairing

the damage we had sustain'd until the 4th of August, and after all put to

Sea with a leaky Ship, and afterwards coasted the Shore to the Northward

through the most dangerous Navigation that perhaps ever ship was in,

until the 22nd of same month, when, being in the Latitude of 10 degrees

30 minutes South, we found a Passage into the Indian Sea between the

Northern extremity of New Holland and New Guinea. After getting through

the Passage I stood for the Coast of New Guinea, which we made on the

29th; but as we found it absolutely necessary to heave the Ship down to

Stop her leaks before we proceeded home, I made no stay here, but quitted

this Coast on the 30th of September, and made the best of my way to

Batavia, where we Arrived on the 10th instant, and soon after obtained

leave of the Governor and Council to be hove down at Onrust, where we

have but just got alongside of the Wharf in order to take out our Stores,

etc.

"I send herewith a copy of my Journal, containing the Proceedings of the

whole Voyage, together with such Charts as I have had time to Copy, which

I judge will be sufficient for the present to illustrate said Journal. In

this Journal I have with undisguised truth and without gloss inserted the

whole Transactions of the Voyage, and made such remarks and have given

such discriptions of things as I thought was necessary in the best manner

I was Capable off. Altho' the discoverys made in this Voyage are not

great, yet I flatter myself they are such as may Merit the Attention of

their Lordships; and altho' I have failed in discovering the so much

talked of Southern Continent (which perhaps do not exist), and which I

myself had much at heart, yet I am confident that no part of the Failure

of such discovery can be laid to my charge. Had we been so fortunate not

to have run a shore much more would have been done in the latter part of

the Voyage than what was; but as it is, I presume this Voyage will be

found as compleat as any before made to the South Seas on the same

account. The plans I have drawn of the places I have been at were made

with all the Care and accuracy that time and Circumstances would admit

of. Thus far I am certain that the Latitude and Longitude of few parts of

the World are better settled than these. In this I was very much assisted

by Mr. Green, who let slip no one opportunity for making of Observations

for settling the Longitude during the whole Course of the Voyage; and the

many Valuable discoveries made by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in Natural

History, and other things useful to the learned world, cannot fail of

contributing very much to the Success of the Voyage. In justice to the

Officers and the whole Crew, I must say they have gone through the

fatigues and dangers of the whole Voyage with that cheerfulness and

Allertness that will always do Honour to British Seamen, and I have the

satisfaction to say that I have not lost one Man by sickness during the

whole Voyage. I hope that the repairs wanting to the Ship will not be so

great as to detain us any length of time. You may be assured that I shall

make no unnecessary delay either here or at any other place, but shall

make the best of my way home. I have the Honour to be with the greatest

respect,

"Sir,

"Your most Obedient Humble Servant,

"(Signed) JAMES COOK.

"Endeavour Bark,

at Onrust, near Batavia,

the 23rd of October, 1770."

26th. Set up the Ship's Tent for the reception of the Ship's Company, several of them begin to be taken ill, owing, as I suppose, to the extream hot weather.

[Heaving down at Batavia]

27th. Employed getting out Stores, Ballast, etc.

22nd to 24th October 1770

[At Batavia]

22nd. In the A.M. two ships went from the Wharfes at Coopers Island, when we prepared to go along side one of them.

23rd.  In the P.M. hauled along side one of the Wharfes, in order to take out our stores, etc., after which the Ship is to be deliver'd into the Charge of the proper Officers at Onrust, who will (as I am inform'd) heave her down, and repair her, with their own people, while ours must stand and look on, who, if we were permitted, could do every thing wanting to the Ship ourselves.

24th. Employ'd clearing the Ship, having a Store House to put our Stores, etc., in. In the P.M. I went up to Town in order to put on board the first Dutch Ship that Sails, a pacquet for the Admiralty containing a Copy of my Journal, a Chart of the South Sea, another of New Zeeland, and one of the East Coast of New Holland. In the morning the General, accompanied by the Water Fiscall, some of the Council, and the Commodore, each in their respective Boats, went out into the Road on board the oldest Captain, in order to appoint him Commodore of the Fleet, ready to Sail for Holland. The Ships was drawn up in 2 Lines, between which the General past to the new Commodore's Ship, which lay the farthest out. Each ship as he passed and repassed gave him 3 Cheers, and as soon as he was on board, and the Dutch Flag Hoisted at the Main Topmast Head, the other Commodore Saluted him with 21 Guns, and immediately after Struck his Broad Pendant, which was again hoisted as soon as the General left the other Ship; he was then Saluted with 17 Guns by the new made Commodore, who now hoisted a Common Pendant. This Ceremony of appointing a Commodore over the Grand Fleet, as they call it, we were told is Yearly perform'd. I went out in my Boat on purpose to see it, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, because we were told it was one of the Grandest sights Batavia afforded; that may be too, and yet it did not recompense us for our trouble. I thought that the whole was but ill conducted, and the Fleet appear'd to be very badly mann'd. This fleet consists of 10 or 12 stout Ships; not only these, but all or most of their other Ships are pierced for 50 Guns, but have only their upper Tier mounted, and these are more by half than they have men to fight.

21st October 1770

[At Batavia]

In the P.M. orders came down to the Officers of the yard to comply with everything I wanted, but we could not yet get a Wharfe to land our Stores, they being all taken up by shipping.

Joseph Banks Journal

After Petitioning and Repetitioning the Council of the Indies our affairs were at last settled and orders given to heave down the Ship with all expedition, so she this Day went down to Kuyper calld by the English Coopers Island where a warehouse was allotted for her to lay up her stores etc.

We now began sensibly to feel the ill Effects of the unwholesome climate we were in: our appetites and spirits were gone but none were yet realy sick except poor Tupia and Tayeto, both of which grew worse and worse daily so that I began once more to despair of poor Tupias life. At last he desird to be removd to the ship where he said he should breathe a freeer air clear of the numerous houses which he beleivd to be the cause of his disease by stopping the free draught.

19th and 20th October 1770

[At Batavia]

19th. In the P.M. I sent a Petty Officer to Mr. Hicks, who Lodges ashore at Batavia for the recovery of his health, with orders to desire him to wait upon the Shebander, in order to get the necessary orders respecting us dispatched to this place as soon as possible.

20th. Employ'd unrigging the ship, etc.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

20th. All the ships, which are careened and hove-down here, go to a small island in the bay, called Unrust, about seven miles from Batavia; where there is proper tackle to heave them down, and a bass, or overseer, to manage all matters. The whole island is one dock-yard, inhabited entirely by carpenters, and others, who belong to the ships that are there. Near Unrust is another island, called the Kuypers, or Coopers, which is full of warehouses, where ships deposit their goods while they are heaving-down. About a mile from this, there is another island, called Palmirante, where there is an hospital for sick seamen: and upon this island the ships companies inter their dead. There are many other islands in the bay, named Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Eadam, where the company have rope-manufactories, and send their felons.

18th October 1770

[At Batavia]

In the P.M. received on board 2 live Oxen, 150 Gallons of Arrack, 3 Barrels of Tar, and one of Pitch; at daylight in the A.M. took up our Anchor and run down to Onrust.

At 9 Anchor'd in 7 fathoms off Coopers Island, which lies close to Onrust. There are wharfs at both of these Islands, and ships land there stores, sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other, but it is only at Onrust where the proper conveniences are for heaving down. Soon after we Anchor'd I went on shore to the Officer of the Yard, to see if they could not allow us some place to land our stores, but this could not be granted without orders.

17th October 1770

[At Batavia]

In the P.M. I waited upon the Superintendent of Onrust, with an order from the Shebander, to receive us at that Island, but this order, the Superintendent told me, was not sufficient to impower him to give me the conveniences and assistance I wanted, and when I came to call upon the Shebander, I found this mistake was owing to the word "heave down" being wrong translated; this Circumstance, trifling as it is, will cause a delay of some days, as it cannot be set to rights until next Council day, which is not till Friday.

Joseph Banks Journal

This at once cleard up the account given us by the Indians of Otahite of the two ships which had been there ten Months before us, V.I, p. 164 of this Journal. These were undoubtedly the ships of Mr De Bougainville, and the Indian Otourrou the Brother of Rette Cheif of Hidea. Even the story of the woman was known here--she it seems was a French woman who Followd a young man sent out in the character of Botanist in mens cloaths. As for the Article of the colours, the Indians might easily be Mistaken or Mr De Bougainville if he had traded in the S. Sea under Spanish colours might chuse to go quite across with them. As for the Iron which most misled us that he undoubtedly bought in Spanish America. Besides the Botanist mentiond above these ships were furnish'd with one or more Draughtsmen so that they probably have done some part of our work for us.

16th October 1770

[At Batavia]

Tuesday, 16th. Finding, by a strict inquiry, that there were no private person or persons in the place that could at this time advance me a sufficient sum of money to defray the charge I might be at in repairing and refitting the Ship - at least, if there were any, they would be afraid to do it without leave from the Governor - wherefore I had nothing left but to apply to the Governor himself, and accordingly drew up the following request, which I laid before the Governor and Council this morning, in consequence of which the Shebander had orders to supply me with what money I wanted out of the Company's Treasure:--

"Lieutenant James Cook, Commander of His Brittannick Majesty's Bark the Endeavour, begs leave to represent to His Excellency the Right Honourable Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, Governor-General, etc., etc., That he will be in want of a Sum or Sums of Money in order to defray the Charge he will be at in repairing and refiting His Brittannick Majesty's Ship at this place; which sum or sums of money he is directed by his Instructions, and empower'd by his commission, to give Bills of Exchange on the respective Offices which Superintend His  Brittannick Majesty's Navy.

"The said Lieutenant James Cook Requests of His Excellency, That he will be pleased to order him to be supply'd with such sum or sums of money, either out of the Company's Treasure, or permit such private persons to do it as may be willing to advance money for Bills of Exchange on the Honourable and Principal Officers and Commissioners of His Brittannick Majesty's Navy, the Commissioners for Victualling His Majesty's Navy, and the Commissioners for taking care of the Sick and Hurt.

"Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty's

Bark the Endeavour, in Batavia Road,

the 16th of October, 1770.

"JAMES COOK."

Joseph Banks Journal

I was walking the streets with Tupia a man totaly unknown to me ran out of his house and eagerly acosting me askd if the Indian whoom he saw with me had not been at Batavia before. On my declaring that he had not and asking the reason of so odd a question he told me that a year and a half before Mr De Bougainville had been at Batavia with two French ships, and that with him was an Indian so like this that he had imagind it to be the identical same person had not I informd him to the contrary. On this I enquir'd and found that Mr De Bougainville who was sent out by the French to the Malouine or Fauklands Islands (in order, as they said here, to sell them to the Spanyards) Had gone from thence to the River Plate and afterwards having passd into the South Seas maybee to other Spanish ports, where he and all his people had got an immense deal of Money in new Spanish Dollars, and afterwards came here Across the South seas in which passage he discoverd divers lands unknown before and from one of them brought the Indian in question.

14th and 15th October 1770

[At Batavia]

14th. Early this morning a ship sail'd from hence for Holland by which I had just time to write 2 or 3 lines to Mr. Stephens, Secretary of the Admiralty, to acquaint him of our Arrival, after which I went on shore and waited upon the Shabander, who has the direction of the Town, Port, etc., to get an order to the Superintendent at Onrust to receive us at that Island, but this, I was told, would not be ready before Tuesday next. Received from the Shore Fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship's Company.

 

15th. Fresh Sea and land breezes and fair weather. I had forgot to mention, that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick List; Lieut. Hicks, Mr. Green, and Tupia were the only people that had any complaints occasioned by a long continuance at Sea.* (* This was an achievement indeed, and Cook records it in this simple observation. Of the many ships which had arrived at Batavia after voyages across the Pacific, none but had come to an anchor with crews decimated and enfeebled through scurvy. Hawksworth mentions, probably on the authority of Banks, that when passing Torres Straits there were several incipient cases of this disease in the Endeavour. The fresh provisions obtained at Savu probably dissipated these symptoms, if they were symptoms; but Mr. Perry, the surgeon, in his report, given in the Introduction, distinctly states that there were no cases after leaving Tahiti.)

 

Joseph Banks Journal

Ever since our arrival at this place Dr Solander and myself had apply'd to be introduc'd to the General or Governor on one of his Publick or Council days. We had been put off by various foolish excuses and at last were plainly told that as we could have no business with him we could have no reason to desire that favour. But as we had often press'd the thing this as an excuse did not satisfie us so I went myself to the Shabandar, who is also master of the Ceremonies, in order to ask his reasons for refusing so trifling a request; but was surprizd at being very politely receivd and told that the very next morning he would attend us, which he did and we were introduc'd and had the honour of conversing for a few minutes with his high Mightiness who however was very polite to us. Ever since our first arrival here we had been universaly told of the extreme unwholesomeness of the place which we, they said, should severely feel on account of the freshness and heal[t]hiness of our countenances.

 

This threat however we did not much regard thinking ourselves too well season'd to variety of Climates to fear any, and trusting more than all to an invariable temperance in every thing, which we had as yet unalterably kept during our whole residence in the warm latitudes so had small reason to doubt our resolutions of keeping for the future. Before the end of this month however we were made sensible of our Mistake. Poor Tupias broken constitution felt it first and he grew worse and worse every day. Then Tayeto his boy was attackd by a cold and i[n]flammation on his lungs; then my Servants Peter and James and myself had Intermitting fevers and Dr Solander a constant nervous one; in short every one on shore and Many on board were ill, cheifly of intermittents, Occasiond no doubt by the lowness of the countrey and the numberless dirty Canals which intersect the town in all directions.

12th and 13th October 1770

[At Batavia]

12th. At 5 o'clock P.M. I was introduced to the Governor-General, who received me very politely and told me that I should have every thing I wanted, and that in the Morning my request should be laid before the Council where I was desir'd to attend. About 9 o'clock in the Evening we had much rain, with some very heavy Claps of Thunder, one of which carried away a Dutch Indiaman's Main Mast by the Deck, and split it, the Maintopmast and Topgallantmast all to shivers. She had had an Iron Spindle at the Maintopgallant Mast head which had first attracted the Lightning. The ship lay about 2 Cable lengths from us, and we were struck with the Thunder at the same time, and in all probability we should have shared the same fate as the Dutchman, had it not been for the Electrical Chain which we had but just before got up; this carried the Lightning or Electrical matter over the side clear of the Ship. The Shock was so great as to shake the whole ship very sencibly. This instance alone is sufficient to recommend these Chains to all Ships whatever, and that of the Dutchman ought to Caution people from having Iron Spindles at their Mast heads.* (* No instance is known of ships fitted with properly constructed lightning conductors having received any damage.)

 

In the morning I went on shore to the Council Chamber and laid my request before the Governour and Council, who gave me for answer that I should have every thing I wanted.

 

13th. Received on board a Cask of Arrack and some Greens for the Ship's Company.

 

Joseph Banks Journal

12th. Being now a little settled I hird a small house next door to the hotel on the Left hand for which I paid 10 Rixd 2£/ a month; here Our books etc. were lodg'd but here we were far from private, Every Duchman almost that came by running in and asking what we had to sell, for it seems that Hardly any individual had ever been at Batavia before who had not something or other to sell. I also hird 2 Carriages which are a kind of open Chaises made to hold two people and drove by a man setting on a Coachbox, for each of these I paid 2 Rxr 8s/ a day by the Month; and now being fairly settled we sent for Tupia ashore to us who had till now remaind on board on account of his Illness which was of the Bilious kind, and for which he had all along refusd to take any medecines.

 

On his arrival his spirits which had long been very low were instantly raisd by the sights which he saw, and his boy Tayeto who had always been perfectly well was allmost ready to run mad. Houses, Carriages, streets, in short every thing were to him sights which he had often heard describd but never well understood, so he lookd upon them all with more than wonder, almost made with the numberless novelties which diverted his attention from one to the other he danc'd about the streets examining every thing to the best of his abilities.

 

One of Tupia's first observations was the various dresses which he saw worn by different people; on his being told that in this place every different nation wore their own countrey dress He desird to have his, on which South Sea cloth was sent for on board and he cloathd himself according to his taste. We were now able to get food for him similar to that of his own countrey and he grew visibly better every day, so that I doubted not in the least of his perfect recovery as our stay at this place was not likely to be very short.

11th October 1770

[At Batavia]

The Carpenter now deliver'd me in the defects of the ship, of which the following is a copy:-- "The Defects of His Majesty's Bark Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook, Commander. "The Ship very leaky (as she makes from 12 to 6 Inches water per hour),occasioned by her Main Kiel being wounded in many places and the Scarfe of her Stem being very open. The false Kiel gone beyond the Midships (from Forward and perhaps further), as I had no opportunity of seeing for the water when hauld ashore for repair. Wounded on her Starboard side under the Main Chains, where I immagine is the greatest leakes (but could not come at it for the water). One pump on the Starboard side useless, the others decayed within 1 1/2 Inch of the bore, otherwise Masts, Yards, Boats, and Hull in pretty good condition.

"Dated in Batavia Road, "this 10th of October, 1770. "J. SATTERLY."

Previous to the above, I had consulted with the Carpenter and all the other Officers concerning the Leake, and they were all unanimously of Opinion that it was not safe to proceed to Europe without first seeing her bottom; accordingly I resolved to apply for leave to heave her down at this place, and, as I understood that this was to be done in writing, I drew up the following request to be presented to the Governor, etc., etc.:-- 

"Lieutenant James Cook, commander of His Brittannick Majesty's Bark Endeavour, Requests of the Right Hon'ble Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, Governor-General, etc., etc., etc., the Indulgence of the following Articles, viz.:

"Firstly, That he may be allow'd a proper and convenient place to heave down and repair His Brittannick Majesty's Ship under his command.

"Secondly, That he may have leave to purchase such few Trifling Naval stores as he may be in want of. 

"Thirdly, That he may be permitted daily to purchase such provisions as he may want; also such an Additional quantity as may enable him to proceed on his passage home to England.

"Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty's Bark Endeavour, in Batavia Road, the 11th October, 1770.

"JAMES COOK."

In the morning I went on shore myself and had the foregoing request Translated into Dutch by a Scotch Gentleman, a Merchant here.

Joseph Banks Journal 

We agreed with the keeper of the House whose name was Van Heys the Rates we should pay for living as follows: Each person for Lodging and eating two Rix dollars or 8s pr Diem; for this he agreed as we were five of us who would probably have many visitants from the Ship to keep us a seperate table: for each stranger we were to pay one Rix dollar 4s for dinner, and another for supper and bed if he staid ashore: we were to have also for selves and freinds Tea, Coffee, Punch, and Pipes and tobacco as much as we could destroy, in short every thing the house afforded except wine and beer which we were to pay for at the following rates:

s d Claret 39 

Stivers 3/3

Hock 1

Ryxr 4/ 

Lisbon 39 3/3 

Sweet wine 39 3/3

Madera 1 Rupee 2/6

Beer 1 Rupee 2/6

Spa Water 1 Ryxr 4/-

Besides this we were to pay for our Servants ½ a rupee 1/3 a day each. For these rates, which we soon found to be more than double the common charges of Boarding and lodging in the town, we were furnishd with a Table which under the appearance of Magnificence was wretchedly coverd; indeed Our dinners and suppers consisted of one course each, the one of fifteen the other of thirteen dishes, of which when you came to examine seldom less than 9 or 10 were of Bad Poultrey roasted, boild, fryd, stewd etc.etc. and so little concience had they in serving up dishes over and over again that I have seen the same identical roasted Duck appear upon table 3 times as a roasted duck before he found his way into the fricassee, from whence he was again to Pass into forcemeat. This treatment however was not without remedy: we found that it was the constant custom of the house to supply strangers at their first arrival with every article as bad as possible, which if they through good nature or indolence put up with it was so much the better for the house; if not it was easy to amend their treatment by degrees till they were satisfied. On this discovery we made frequent remonstrances and amended our fare considerably, so much that had we had any one among us who understood this kind of wrangling I am convinc'd we might have liv'd as well as we could have desird.

10th October 1770

[Arrival at Batavia]* (*Modern Jakarta)

10th October according to our reckoning, but by the people here Thursday, 11th!  At 4 o'Clock in the P.M. Anchor'd in Batavia road, where we found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, 2 English Country Ships,* (* A country ship is a vessel under the English flag, but belonging to a port in English possessions abroad.) 13 Sail of large Dutch Ships, and a number of small Vessels. As soon as we Anchor'd* (* The Endeavour took nine days, and had to anchor fifteen times, in getting from Java Head, at the entrance of Sunda Strait, to Batavia, a distance of 120 miles.)

I sent Lieutenant Hicks a shore to acquaint the Governor of our Arrival, and to make an excuse for not Saluting; as we could only do it with 3 Guns I thought it was better let alone.

Joseph Banks Journal

After breakfast this morning we all went ashore in the Pinnace and immediately went to the house of Mr Leigth, the only English man of any Credit Resident in Batavia. We found him a very Young Man, under twenty, who had lately arrivd here and succeeded his uncle a Mr Burnet in his Business which was pretty considerable, more so we were told than our New Comer had either money or credit to manage. He soon gave us to understand that he could be of very little service to us either in introductions, as the Duch people he said were not fond of him, or in Money affairs as he had began trade too lately to have any more than what was employd in getting more. He however after having kept us to dine with him offerd his assistance in shewing us the method of living in Batavia and Assisting us in setling in such a manner as we should think fit. In order to this here were two alternatives; either to go to the Hotel, a kind of Inn kept by order of goverment where it seems all Merchant strangers are obligd to reside, Paying ½ PC. for warehouseroom for their Goods which the master of the house is Obligd to find for them: we however having come in a Kings Ship were free from that Obligation and might live where ever we pleas'd after having ask'd leave of the Council which was never refus'd. We might therefore if we chose it take a house in any part of the town and bringing our own servants ashore keep it, which would be much Cheaper than living at the Hotel provided we had any body on whoom we could depend to buy in our provisions; but this not being the Case as we had none with us who understood the Malay Language we concluded that the Hotel would be the best for us, certainly the least troublesome and may be not vastly the most expensive. Accordingly we went there, bespoke beds and slept there at night.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 10th, we anchored in the road of Batavia, in which we found sixteen large ships, three of which were British; one of them an Indiaman that had lost its passage to China, and the other two private merchantmen. A lieutenant, in the pinnace, was dispatched to the deputy-governor with a message, who told him, he should be glad to see captain Cook, and that it would be proper to present his requests to the council in writing, who were to meet the next day. The pinnace returned to the ship, loaded with pine-apples, plantains, water-melons, and a bun-dle of London newspapers, which were very acceptable presents.

The Dutch commodore sent a messenger on-board of us, to enquire who we were; and by him we learned that the Falmouth man-of-war fell to pieces in this road about four months before we arrived.

9th October 1770

[In Sunda Strait]

A little past Noon weigh'd with a light breeze at North-East, and stood to the Eastward until 5 o'Clock, when, not being able to weather Pulo Pare, we Anchor'd in 30 fathoms, the said Island extending from South-East to South-South-West, distant 1 Mile. At 10 got the land wind at South, with which we weighed and stood to the East-South-East all night; depth of water, from 30 to 22 fathoms, and from 22 to 16 fathoms. When we Anchor'd at 10 o'Clock in the A.M. to wait for the Sea breeze, the Island of Edam bore South-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Miles. At Noon we weighed and stood in for Batavia Road, having the advantage of the Sea breeze at North-North-East.

 

Joseph Banks Journal

A fine Land breeze which held the greatest part of the night ran us by morn abreast of the Island of Edam so that we saw the vessels at anchor in Batavia road and Onrust Island.  At 10 it left us and we anchord; by 11 it cleard up towards Batavia so much that we saw distinctly the Dome of the great church; at ½ after sea breeze set in and before 4 we were at anchor in Batavia Road. A boat came immediately on board us from a ship which had a broad Pendant flying, the officer on board her enquird who we were etc. and immediately returnd.  Both himself and his people were almost as Spectres, no good omen of the healthyness of the countrey we were arrived at; our people however who truly might be calld rosy and plump, for we had not a sick man among us, Jeerd and flouted much at their brother sea mens white faces.  By this time our boat was ready which went ashore with the first lieutenant who had orders to acquaint the commanding officer ashore of our arrival.  At night he returnd having met with a very civil reception from the Shabandar who tho no military officer took cognizance of all these things.  I forgot to mention before that we found here the Harcourt Indiaman Captn Paul and 2 English Private traders from the Coast of India.

8th October 1770

[In Sunda Strait]

Had it Calm until 4 in the P.M., when we got the Sea breeze at North-East very faint, with which we weighed and stood to the Eastward, past Wapping Island, and the first Island to the Eastward of it. Falling little wind we were carried by the Current between this last Island and the 2nd Island, to the Eastward of Wapping Island, where we were obliged to Anchor in 30 fathoms, being very near a ledge of Rocks which spitted out from one of the Islands. At 1/2 past 2 o'Clock in the A.M., weighed with the land wind at South and stood out clear of the shoal, where we were again obliged to come to an Anchor, having Variable light winds attended with Thunder and rain. At 5 o'Clock the weather being fair, and a light breeze at South, we weighed, but making little or no way against the Current, we soon came too again, in 28 fathoms, near a small Island not laid down in the Charts; Pulo Pare* (* Wapping Island is now known as Hoorn, and Pulo Pare as Agenietan Islands. They lie, among many others, to the north-west of Batavia Roads.) bore East-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Miles. While we lay here a Proe came alongside, where in were 2 Malays, who sold us 3 Turtles, weighing 147 pounds, for a Spanish Dollar. Some on board thought them dear, but I thought they were cheap, founding my Judgment on the price the two Dutchmen that were on board before set upon those they had, one of which we paid a Dollar for, that weighed only 36 pounds.

Joseph Banks Journal

Breezes were very uncertain all night attended with Thunder, lightning and heavy rain, so that tho we got out from our Last nights disagreable situation and saild all night we were not in the morn at all ahead, so we anchord at 6. At 8 Dr Solander and myself went ashore on a small Islet belonging to the Milles Isles not laid down in the Draught, laying from Pulo Bedroe NbE 5 miles. The whole was not above 500 yards long and 100 broad yet on it was a house and a small plantation, in which however at this time was no plant from whence any profit could be derivd except Ricnus palma Christi, of which the Castor oil is made in the West Indies. Upon the shoal about ¼ of a mile from the Island were two people in a canoe who seemd to hide themselves as if afraid of us; we supposd them to be the inhabitants of our Island. We found very few species of plants but shot a Bat whose wings measurd 3 feet when strechd out (Vesp. Vampyrus) and 4 plovers exactly like our English golden plover (Charadrius Pluvialis); with these and the few plants we returnd and very soon after a small Indian boat came alongside, having in her 3 turtle, some dry fish and pumkins. We bought his turtle which weighd all together 146 lb for a dollar, with which bargain he seemd well pleasd, but could scarcely be prevaild upon to take any other Coin for his Pumpkins, often desiring that we would cut a dollar and give him a part; at last however a Portugese Petacka shining and well coind tempted him to part with his stock which consisted of 26. He told us that the Island calld in most draughts Pulo Babi was realy calld Po Tounda, and that calld Pulo Bedroe Pulo Payon. At parting he made signs that we should not tell at Batavia that any boat had been on board us. At 1 the sea breeze sprang up and carryd us by 5 the lengh of all the Islands calld Pulo Pare; off the E end of them however was a shoal on which it broke a good deal which we could not weather, so were obligd to anchor abreast a passage between it and the Island in which was 22 fathom water, not having day light to carry us through. On all the Islands of Pulo Pare were Cocoa nut trees, some houses and vessels hauld up, and along the sides of the Beach were neat fishing weirs.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 8th, having light breezes, with calms, and the current running strong against us, we made but very little way. This day we sailed between the Milles Isles, Pulo Tidong, and Pulo Fare. These are mostly small and low islands, covered with trees; and, by the lights which we saw on shore, we concluded that some of them were inhabited; and were not deceived in our conjectures; for, at night, some of the natives came off to us, and brought some turtles, pumpkins, and dried fish.

7th October 1770

[In Sunda Strait]

Light Air from the Southward with frequent Calms. At 6 o'Clock P.M., weighed with a light breeze at South-South-West, which was not sufficient to stem the current, and was therefore obliged to come too again, in 15 fathoms. At 10 o'Clock weighed again and stood to the Eastward with the Wind at South-South-East. At 11 A.M., Anchor'd in 21 fathoms, the West end of Wapping Island bore South, distant 3 Miles, and the Thousand Islands North by East 1/2 East, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Found the Current still set to the Westward.

Joseph Banks Journal

Got the Land breeze in the Night as usual and saild with it till morn, when we were almost up with Wapping Isle calld by the Malays Pulo Tidong where we anchord and lay still. The current was pretty strong and brought with it great plenty of Sea sawdust among which were even here some leaves and other productions of the land, also many Cuttle Fish bones, Portugese men of war and other recrements of the Sea. In the afternoon we had a faint sea breeze which ran us very near the lengh of the third Island and then left us, so that the Current took hold of the ship unawares and had almost set her ashore on a small ledge of rocks, on which was not water enough for a small boat which we sent to examine them. After we were at an anchor in the night we observd lights upon some of the Islands cald Bedroe or Les Milles Isles, some of which lay much nearer to Pulo Tidong than they are laid down in any of the draughts.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

We weighed and dropped anchor several times, having light breezes and calms: however, the tide shifting in our favour, we reached, that day, as far as Pulo Babi, which lies in the bay of Bantam, and passed Pulo Panjang.

6th October 1770

[In Sunda Strait]

At 2 o'Clock P.M., finding we could not stem the Current, we anchor'd, with the Kedge Anchor, under Bantam Point, where we lay until 9, at which time Current made Slowly to the Eastward, and at the same time a light breeze springing up, we weigh'd and stood to the East until 10 o'Clock in the A.M., when the Current oblig'd us again to Anchor in 22 fathoms, Pula Baba bearing East by South 1/2 South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Our sounding from Bantam Point to this place was from 36 to 22 fathoms.

Joseph Banks Journal

Saild all night; in the morn were almost up with an Island calld Pulo Babi or Pulo Tounda but were so far without it that it was thought best to go the outer passage. The land breeze however left us as usual about O'Clock and we came to an anchor and spent the whole day without any sea breeze sufficient to stem the current, which was very strong and ran constantly to the westward. We have Observd it to be very various since we came into the streights, sometimes running with much greater violence than at others but setting almost if not quite continualy to the Westward: once only it was thought to have turnd to the Eastward for a few hours but that was never made sufficiently clear: this violence would sometimes alter very considerably several times in an hour. At night observd fire upon Pulo Tounda.

5th October 1770

[In Sunda Strait.]

At 5 in the P.M. we weighed with a light breeze at South-West by South, which continued not long before it fell Calm, and obliged us to Anchor again. At 1 o'Clock we weigh'd with the Land wind at

South-South-East, which died away in the Morning, and the Current running strong against us we Anchor'd in 17 fathoms. A little before this, a Proe came alongside, wherein was a Dutch Officer who came upon the same business as the other. He sent me down a printed paper in English containing 9 Articles or Questions, of which this is a Copy.

"The Commanders and Officers of the Ships where this Paper may be

presented, will be pleased to answer on the following Questions: viz.,

1. "To what Nation the Ship belongs, and its Name.

2. "If it comes from Europe or any other place.

3. "From what place it lastly departed from.

4. "Where unto design'd to go.

5. "What, and how many, ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the last shore there lay'd, and their names.

6. "If one or more of these ships in Company with this is departed for this or any other place.

7. "If during the Voyage any particularity is hapned or seen.

8. "If not any ships in Sea, or the Streights of Sunda have seen or Hail'd in, and which.

9. "If any other News worth Attention at the place from whence the Ship lastly departed or during the vogage is hapned.

"Batavia in the Castle, the

By Order of the Governor

General and the Counselors of India.

"J. BRANDER BUNGL, Sect."

The first and fourth of these Questions I only answer'd, which when the Officer saw, he made use of the very same words the other had done before, viz.: that we might write what we pleased, for it was of no consequence, etc., and yet he immediately said that he must send that very paper away to Batavia by water, and that it would be there by to-morrow noon, which shows that the Governor and Counselors of India look upon such papers to be of some consequence. Be this as it may, my reason for taking notice of it in this Journal, is because I am well inform'd that it is but of very late years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine all Ships that pass these Streights.

At 10 o'Clock we weigh'd with a light breeze at South-West, but did little more than stem the Current. At Noon, Bantam Point* (* Bantam Point, now called St. Nicholas Point, is the north-west point of Java, and forms the north-eastern extreme of Sunda Strait.) and Pula Baba, in one bearing East by North, distant from the Point 1 1/2 Mile. Latitude observed, 5 degrees 53 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal

Early in the morn a Proa came on board bringing a Duch man who said that his post was much like that of him who was on board on the 3d; he presented a printed paper of which he had Copies in English, French and Duch regularly signd in the name of the governor and council of the Indies by their Secretary. These he desird we would give written answers to which he told us would be sent express to Batavia where they would arrive tomorrow at noon. He had in the boat turtle and eggs of which latter he sold a few for somewhat less than a penny apeice and then went away. The day was spent as usual in getting up and letting down the anchor; at night however we were very near Bantam point.

4th October 1770

[In Sunda Strait]

In the P.M. had the wind at North-East by North, which obliged us to lay fast. About 6 o'Clock in the evening one of the Country Boats came alongside in which was the Commander of the Packet before mentioned; he seem'd to have 2 Motives for coming, one to take an account of the Ship, and the other to sell us refreshments, for in the Boat were Turtle, Fowls, Birds, etc., all of which they held at a pretty high Price, and had brought to a bad market, as our Savu stock was not all expended. I gave a Spanish Dollar for a small Turtle which weighed only 36 pounds. With respect to the Ship, he wanted to know her name, the Captain's, the place we came last from and were bound, as I would not see him myself. I order'd that no account should be given him from whence we came; but Mr. Hicks, who wrote the Ship's name down in his book, put down from Europe. Seeing this he expressed some surprise, and said that we might write down what we pleased, for it was of no other use than for the information of such of our Country men as might pass these Streights.

At 7 o'Clock a light breeze sprung up at South-South-East, with which we got under sail. At 1 A.M. Anchor'd again, having not wind to stem the Current which we found to run 3 Knotts; at 2 o'Clock we weighed again, but, finding that we lost ground, we were obliged to Anchor in 18 fathoms, the Island Pulo Morack, which lies close under the Shore 3 Miles to the Westward of Bantam Point: bore South-East by South, distance 1 1/2 miles. Latitude observed, 5 degrees 55 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal

Lightning in the night. In the morn calms and light breezes not sufficient to stem the current which was very strong. To make our situation as tantalizing as possible innumerable Proas were sailing about us in all directions. A boat was sent ashore for grass and landed at an Indian town where by hard bargaining some Cocoa nuts were bought at about three halfpence a peice and rice in the straw at about 5 farthings a gallon; neither here or in any other place where we have had connections with them would they take any money but Spanish dollars. Large quantities of that floating substance which I have often mentiond before under the name of Sea Saw dust had been seen ever since we came into the streights and more particularly today; among it were many leaves, fruits, old stalks of Plantain trees, Plants of Pistia Stratiotes and such like trash, from whence we almost concluded that it came out of some river. At noon by a good Observation we found Pulo Pissang off which we lay at an anchor to be laid down 5 miles to[o] far to the Northward in La Neptune Oriental. In the Evening light breezes so that we got a little ahead.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 4th, we had a northerly wind, which was directly against us, and the current ran very strong. Finding that we had lost ground, we anchored at night off Pulo Pisane; and, while we lay at anchor, some of our people went on shore in a boat, and bought some cocoas, and Paddy, or rice in the husk. On the even-ing of the next day, a light breeze sprang up from the West; but we were soon becalmed, and dropped anchor again. The weather was very sultry. Thermo-meter 86.

3rd October 1770

[Enter Sunda Strait]

Soon after 12 o'Clock it fell quite Calm, which obliged us to Anchor in 18 fathoms, Muddy bottom, about 2 Miles from shore, where we found a strong Current setting to the South-West. Not long before we Anchor'd we saw a Dutch Ship laying off Anger Point, on board which I sent Mr. Hicks to enquire after News.* (* It will be recollected that the Endeavour was now two years and two months from England, without the slightest chance of any news from home. We can imagine the anxiety and excitement on board on thus approaching civilisation, though they had no prospect of personal letters. With the frequent communication of modern times, we can scarcely realise such circumstances, and should certainly consider them as an exceeding hardship.) Upon his return he inform'd me that there were 2 Dutch Ships from Batavia, one bound for Ceylon, and the other to the Coast of Mallabar, besides a small Fly-boat or Packet, which is stationed here to carry all Packets, Letters, etc., from all Dutch Ships to Batavia; but it seems more Probable that she is stationed here to examine all Ships that pass and repass these Straits. We now first heard the agreeable news of His Majesty's Sloop The Swallow being at Batavia about 2 Years ago.* (* The Swallow, Captain Cartaret, had sailed with the Dolphin in 1766, but separated from her on emerging from the Strait of Magellan. The Dolphin had reached England some months before Cook sailed, but nothing had been heard of the Swallow, and fears were entertained of her loss.) At 7 o'Clock a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we weighed and stood to the North-East between Thwart-the-way Island and the Cap:* (* Thwart-the-Way is an island that lies right across the fairway of Sunda Strait. The Cap is another smaller island that lies North-East of it.) soundings from 18 to 26 fathoms. We had but little Wind all night, and having a Strong Current against us, we got no further by 8 o'Clock in the morning than under Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to North-East, and obliged us to Anchor in 22 fathoms about 2 Miles from the Shore. The above point bore North-East by East, distant 1 League. Here we found a strong Current setting to the North-West. In the morning we saw the Dutch packet standing after us, but after the wind Shifted to the North-East she bore away. One of the Dutch Captains told Mr. Hicks yesterday that the Current sets constantly to the South-Westward, and that it would continue to set so for a Month or Six Weeks longer.

Joseph Banks Journal

Saild all night, in the morn were past the Cap; at 8 it fell calm and we were obligd to come to an anchor by reason of the strong current which ran to the Westward. The Duch Packet which we had been told of yesterday and provd to be a Sloop of no inconsiderable size had been standing after us all the morn and still continued, gaining however but little, till a foul wind sprung up on which she bore away. Our Buffaloes had so intirely lost their stomachs by their long fast that they eat scarce any thing; however least they should take to eating again a boat was sent ashore for grass, which returnd with some and a few plantains and unripe Papaws which when boild eat nearly as well as turnips only sweeter. At night an Indian Proa came on board bringing the Master of the Sloop before mentiond: he brought with him two books in one of which he desird that any of our officers would write down the name of the ship, Commanders name, where we came from and where bound, with any particulars we chose relating to our selves that might be for the information of any of our freinds who might Come after us: which we saw that some ships especialy Portugese had done. This book he told us was kept merely for the information of those who might come through these Streights; in the other which was a fair book he enterd the names of the Ships and Commanders which only were returnd to the Governor and council of the Indies. On our writing down Europe as the place we had Come from he said very well, any thing you please but this is merely for the information of your freinds. In the proa were some small turtle, many fouls and ducks, also parrots, paroquets, Rice birds and monkies, some few of which we bought at the rate of a dollar for a small turtle, the same at first for 10 afterwards for 15 large fowls, two Monkies or a whole cage of Paddy birds.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 3d, we got up near to Bantam Point, or Point St. Nicholas, where we were becalmed, and dropped anchor. We saw a Chinese vessel pass along the Straits, with Chinese colours flying, which were white, and had a broad border, partly blue and partly black: in the middle of it several Chinese characters, and a star, which were painted of the latter colour. She had one mast; an oblong square sail, a bamboo yard, and an awning, or house, in the middle.

In the afternoon, some people came off to us, in a boat, from Angor-Point, to enquire who we were, and brought plantains, pumplenoses, oranges, turtles, parrots, domestic poultry, some small birds, and monkeys, which they offered to sale. They told us that the Prince-George, captain Riddle, was lost last June off Batavia, and that the crew were carried by a Dutch ship to Bengal.

In the evening we weighed anchor, but, having only a light breeze, we made no way.

2nd October 1770

[Enter Sunda Strait]

In the P.M., had the wind at South-South-East, South-East by South and South-South-East, with which we stood to the Eastward close upon a wind. At 6 o'Clock the Hill on Princes Island bore South-West by South, and Cracatoa Island, North 10 Miles; in this situation had 58 fathoms, standing still to the Eastward. At 8 o'Clock had 52 fathoms, muddy bottom, at 10 23 fathoms. By 4 in the morning we fetched close in with the Java shore in 15 fathoms, then steer'd along shore. At 5 it fell Calm, which continued with some Variable light Airs until noon, at which time Anger Point bore North-East, distant 1 League, and Thwart-the-way Island North. In the morning I sent a Boat ashore to try to get some fruits for Tupia, who is very ill, and, likewise, to get some grass, etc., for the Buffaloes we have still left. The Boats return'd with only 4 Cocoa Nutts, a small bunch of Plantains, which they purchased of the Natives for a Shilling, and a few Shrubs for the Cattle.

Joseph Banks Journal

Several lights were seen abreast of the ship the greatest part of the night which in the morn provd to be made by fishermen in small canoes. At day light we were abreast of the 4th point and stood forward with but little wind having sent a boat ashore for grass for the Buffaloes, who during their stay on board had not had more victuals than any one of them could have eat in a day and that the remainder of some bad hay which the goat had dungd upon time immemorial almost. Before noon she returnd bringing some with her which the Indians had not only given to our people but even assisted them to cut; she brought also a few Plantains and Cocoa nuts, but they were bough[t] excessive dear. The Countrey lookd from the ship hilly and very pleasant tho almost one continued wood; Bantam hill seemd very high land. As we proceeded on we opned 2 large ships laying at anchor behind Anger Point. soon after this it Dropd calm and we came to an anchor and sent a boat on board the ships for news. They were Duch East India men, one bound for Cochin on the Coast of Coromandel the other for Ceylon; their Captains receivd our officer very politely and told him some European news, as that the goverment in England were in the utmost disorder, the people crying up and down the streets Down with King George, King Wilkes for ever; that the Americans had refus'd to pay taxes of any kind in consequence of which was a large force being sent there both of sea and land forces; that the party of Polanders who had been forc'd into the late election by the Russians interfereing had askd assistance of the Grand Signior, who had granted it, in consequence of which the Russians had sent 20 Sail of the line and a large army by land to beseige Constantinople etc. etc. etc. In relation to our present circumstances they told us that our passage to Batavia was likely to be very tedious, as we should have a strong current constantly against us and at this time of the year Calms and light breezes were the only weather we had to expect. They said also that near where they lay was a Duch pacquet boat whose business was to go on board all ships coming through the Streights to enquire of them their news and carry or send it with their letters etc. to Batavia with the utmost dispach, which business they said her skipper was oblig'd to do even for foreigners if they requird it. This skipper he said if we wanted refreshments would furnish us with fowls, Turtle etc. at a very cheap rate. At 7 a light breeze springing up we weighd and came to sail. At night some lightning was seen.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

We sailed up as far as Angor Point, where we were becalmed, and waited for the current, which sets to the south till the monsoon shifts. We saw two Indiamen at anchor in Angor Bay. This was a pleasing sight; and, being impa-tient to hear news from England, the pinnace was hoisted out, and some of our people went on board of them, who learned that the Swallow had arrived safe in the English channel; that fresh disturbances had arisen at home, in respect to the ministers, and in America on account of taxes; that the flame of war was like to break out; that the Russians, Poles, and Turks, were already embroiled in a war, and that the Russians had made some vigorous attacks upon the Turks both by sea and land. We sent the boat on shore for some plantains and cocoa-nuts; and, in the evening, having a gentle breeze, we weighed anchor, and stood through between Angor Point and the opposite shore, and past Keita island. The land of Sumatra seemed very near, and appeared to be exceeding high. We had also a more distinct view of Java, which was woody, and very high, particularly Bantam-hill, which is to be seen at a great distance.