30th August 1770

[Off South Coast of New Guinea]

Fresh breezes at South-East, East-South-East, and East by South. After steering South-West by West, 6 miles, we discover'd on our Starboard bow and ahead a Strong appearance of Shoal Water, and by this time we had Shoald our water from 10 to 5 fathoms; upon which I made the Pinnace Signal to Edge down to it, but she not going far enough, we sent the Yawl to sound in it, and at the same time hauld off close upon a Wind, with the Ship until 4, at which time we had run 6 Miles, but did not depen our water anything. We then Edged away South-West, 4 Miles more, but finding still Shoal Water we brought too, and call'd the Boats on board by Signal, hoisted them in, and then hauld off close upon a wind, being at this time about 3 or 4 Miles from the Land. The Yawl found only 3 fathoms water in the place where I sent her to sound, which place I weather'd about 1/2 a mile. Between 1 and 2 we passed a Bay or Inlet, before which lies a small Island that seems to Shelter it from the Southerly winds; but I very much doubt their being Water behind it for Shipping. I could not attempt it because the South-East Trade wind blows right in, and we have not as yet had any land breezes. We stretched off to Sea until 12 o'Clock, at which time we were 10 and 11 Leagues from the Land, and had depen'd our Water to 29 fathoms; we now tack'd and stood in until 4 o'Clock, when, being in 6 1/2 fathoms, we tack'd and lay her head off until day light, at which time we saw the land bearing North-West by West, distant about 4 Leagues. We now made sail and steer'd West-South-West, and then West by South, but coming into 54 fathoms we hauld off South-West until we depen'd our Water to 8 fathoms; we then keept away West by South and West, having 9 fathoms and the Land just in sight from the Deck, which we judged not above 3 or 4 Leagues off, as it is everywhere exceeding low. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 34 minutes West. St. Bartholomew Isle bore North 69 degrees East, distant 74 Miles.

Joseph Banks Journal

In the morn tho the ship was in less than 7 fathom water the land was but just seen from the Deck; we saild along shore however in and about that depth, the Bank as regular as usual. In the Even a large Fire was seen ashore. At Night of a sudden went away to the Northward; we now judgd ourselves to be about the place calld in the Draughts Valche Caep and supposd this to be it. Both yesterday and today vast quantities of the sea Sawdust was seen; some of our people observd that on passing through a bed of it much larger than common they smelt an uncommon stink which they supposd to proceed from it.

Sydney Parkinson Journal

On the 30th, we coasted along about three or four leagues from the land, which was very flat. Our soundings were much the same as the day before. This sand-bank extends about a league farther out to sea, as we judged from the dark-coloured water which we saw from the ship. In the evening, the land seemed to end in a point, and tend away to the north. The sea was very full of some stuff like chaff, and we saw some smoke upon land. Latitude 8° 39’.